Lemon Créme Shea Butter Revision #2


The first revision of Lemon Créme Shea Butter turned out too greasy. I liked the texture other than that, so lowering the greasy feel is my focus on this revision.

While I could add a different ingredient (such as Isopropyl Myristate) to address the greasiness, I’m sticking with the ingredients from the original product I bought, because I’m just that determined to figure this out!

I dropped the Shea Butter from 20 percent to 13 percent, as it’s a very greasy butter. I added 2% to Jojoba Oil, which is a nice dry-feel oil. Then I dropped the percentage of Conditioning Emulsifier from 5 to 4 percent. The extra percentage went to water.

After reviewing the changed formula, it appears the new version will turn out less creamy, which may not be ideal. I decided to add a little to the Stearic Acid to keep the firmer texture.

Join me as I make this revised formula and see how it turns out.

What You’ll Need

SUPPLIES

Distilled Water
Handcrafted Shea Butter
Conditioning Emulsifier
Stearic Acid
Cocoa Butter
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Jojoba Oil
Beeswax
Liquid Germall Plus
Natural Vitamin E
Lemon Sugar Type Fragrance Oil
Lemon Yellow Dye (premixed)

EQUIPMENT

Scale
Microwave-safe container or double boiler
Thermometer
Flexible scraper
Stick blender
Transfer Pipettes

Revised Formula

Percentages

68.5% Water
13% Handcrafted Shea Butter
4% Conditioning Emulsifier
3% Cocoa Butter
3% Jojoba Oil
3% Stearic Acid
2% Glycerin
2% Dimethicone
0.5% Beeswax
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.25% Vitamin E Natural
0.25% Lemon Sugar Fragrance
QS Lemon Yellow dye

100-gram Test Batch

68.5 grams Water
13 grams Handcrafted Shea Butter
4 grams Conditioning Emulsifier
3 grams Cocoa Butter
3 grams Jojoba Oil
3 grams Stearic Acid
2 grams Glycerin
2 grams Dimethicone
0.5 gram Beeswax
0.5 gram Liquid Germall Plus
0.25 gram Vitamin E Natural
0.25 gram Lemon Sugar Fragrance
QS Lemon Yellow dye

Pouring cream into jars.

Instructions

Weigh first 9 ingredients into a microwave-safe container or double boiler. Heat gently, stirring often, until the mixture is completely liquified.

Once the mixture has cooled below 120 degrees, add the preservative, Natural Vitamin E, and fragrance. Stir well to thoroughly incorporate.

At this point, if you want to add color, start with one drop of the Lemon Yellow Dye (premixed in a dropper bottle) and continue adding a drop at a time and mixing well until you reach the desired color.

Notes

The last version was too greasy, and that is the component I most wanted to change. I also wanted to make sure I did not lose the creamy texture; this is supposed to be a pretty heavy cream, not a lotion.

This version really cut down the greasy feel – yay! The cream absorbs quickly into my hands, leaving them feeling well hydrated and still protected. Between the beeswax and the stearic acid (both added and that naturally found in shea butter), there is a protective layer that I feel will protect from trans-epidermal water loss as well as keep my hands feeling moisturized for a longer period of time.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this adventure with formulating! It’s been quite fun for me!

VN:F [1.9.22_1171]
Rating: 0.0/5 (0 votes cast)

About Denise

I'm a crazy goat lady who got into making my own soap with goat milk, found MMS to order supplies, and now I get to combine my love of creating skin care products with a job to pay the feed bill. I live in Alaska and greatly enjoy the unique aspects of my northern home - summer days when it never gets dark and the Northern Lights dancing above in winter. Favorite scents include Wild Mint and Ivy, Rhubarb & Sugar Cane, and Eucalyptus Spearmint.

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.