This is the final day, Day 3 of my testing on the Night Serum formula. I ran 2 more tests today. I hope that these tests have been fun for you to read about. I find it interesting to see how much difference can be in a lotion by merely adjusting the percentages of ingredients that are used. The type of lotion that we use on our face is dependent upon skin type, humidity, and season. Which one would you choose?
Recipe: 200 grams or 7.05 ounces
Test 4
Recipe in Grams
84.4 grams Water
50 grams Cyclomethicone
30 grams Dimethicone
14 grams Hydrovance
8 grams Isopropyl Myristate
6 grams Conditioning Emulsifier
4 grams Orchid Extract
2 grams Squalane
1 gram Liquid Germall Plus
0.04 grams Green Tea Fragrance Oil
0.02 grams Vitamin E Natural |
Recipe in Ounces
2.98 ounces Water
1.76 ounces Cyclomethicone
1.06 ounces Dimethicone
0.49 ounces Hydrovance
0.28 ounces Isopropyl Myristate
0.21 ounces Conditioning Emulsifier
0.14 ounces Orchid Extract
0.07 ounces Squalane
0.04 ounces Liquid Germall Plus
0.01 ounces Green Tea Fragrance Oil
0.01 ounces Vitamin E Natural |
Recipe in Percentages
42.2% Water
25% Cyclomethicone
15% Dimethicone
7% Hydrovance
4% Isopropyl Myristate
3% Conditioning Emulsifier
2% Orchid Extract
1% Squalane
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.2% Green Tea Fragrance Oil
0.1% Vitamin E Natural |
Test 5
Recipe in Grams
84.4 grams Water
40 grams Cyclomethicone
40 grams Dimethicone
14 grams Hydrovance
8 grams Isopropyl Myristate
6 grams Conditioning Emulsifier
4 grams Orchid Extract
2 grams Squalane
1 gram Liquid Germall Plus
0.04 grams Green Tea Fragrance Oil
0.02 grams Vitamin E Natural |
Recipe in Ounces
2.98 ounces Water
1.41 ounces Cyclomethicone
1.41 ounces Dimethicone
0.49 ounces Hydrovance
0.28 ounces Isopropyl Myristate
0.21 ounces Conditioning Emulsifier
0.14 ounces Orchid Extract
0.07 ounces Squalane
0.04 ounces Liquid Germall Plus
0.01 ounces Green Tea Fragrance Oil
0.01 ounces Vitamin E Natural |
Recipe in Percentages
42.2% Water
20% Cyclomethicone
20% Dimethicone
7% Hydrovance
4% Isopropyl Myristate
3% Conditioning Emulsifier
2% Orchid Extract
1% Squalane
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.2% Green Tea Fragrance Oil
0.1% Vitamin E Natural |
Weigh out water, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Hydrovance, Isopropyl Myristate, and Conditioning Emulsifier in your microwave safe container. Microwave in short burst until Conditioning Emulsifier is melted. I found that stirring with a spoon in between your 15-20 second bursts really helps the water to not get over heated and explode in the microwave. The smaller the batch you make, the shorter microwave bursts you will want with more frequent stirring. Blend mixture with an immersion blender well. Allow to cool. Weigh the additives into your cooled serum. Stir well and squeeze into bottles! I used the 1 oz LDPE bottles with a disk top closure because I prefer squeezing my face lotions and serums. You can also use our PET jars.
Test 4
In Test 4 we decreased the water, increased the Cyclomethicone, increased the Hydrovance, and decreased the Conditioning Emulsifier as compared with Test 1. This formula was more fluid, much more transparent (because of the decrease in Conditioning Emulsifier), and had a creamy feeling with a long-lasting massage time.
Test 5
In Test 5 we increased the Dimethicone, increased the Hydrovance, decreased the Isopropyl Myristate, and decreased the Conditioning Emulsifier as compared with Test 1. This formula was more fluid, much more transparent, had a decrease in the velvety feeling, but took longer to rub in than Test 4.
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Thanks for putting the five serums next to each other so we can see the viscosity differences. I think I would prefer #4 since I generally like things about thinner. What would be a good substitute for the orchid extract?
Whitney,
If you don’t like or don’t have orchid extract, any extract substitution of your choosing should be fine. What did you have in mind?
Joy
I think for me I would want a thicker cream for night, like 1 or 2, I live in a very dry climate. Thanks for doing this test!
I have both green tea & chamomile extracts, so I may add a bit of those to the serum. Thanks for doing this comparison, it’s been really great to see how each change in % changes the final product.
Hi Joy,
Thanks for the testing. I enjoyed them – I love to play around with the different %s but don’t have much time to do it. Thinking about using some chamomile or calendula for skin soothing.
I love that you did this comparison. I’ve been wanting to create a night cream for a while now. I think I might prefer 1 or 2 . The thinner ones would be better for day wear. I would love to see a natural version of this though. I try to keep my products as natural as possible.