Recreating Lemon Créme Shea Butter


Many years ago I bought a jar of something called Lemon Créme Shea Butter. The label touted its age-defying, ultra-moisturizing properties. Using it hasn’t made my skin look any younger, but it sure is a good moisturizer, and I love the lemony scent.

I asked our Technical Support folks to help me wade through the ingredient list and see what we could glean to make a similar ultra-moisturizing cream.

Of course I would scent this with Lemon Sugar Type Fragrance Oil with its wonderfully vibrant, tart, sweet lemony fragrance. I also couldn’t resist a few drops of Lemon Yellow Dye for eye appeal.

Here is the formula with which we started. I made a 100-gram test batch to see what it would feel like. Join me and we’ll check it out together.

What You’ll Need

SUPPLIES

Distilled Water
Handcrafted Shea Butter
Conditioning Emulsifier
Stearic Acid
Cocoa Butter
Emulsifying Wax
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Jojoba Oil
Beeswax
Liquid Germall Plus
Natural Vitamin E
Lemon Sugar Type Fragrance Oil
Lemon Yellow Dye (premixed)

EQUIPMENT

Scale
Microwave-safe container or double boiler
Thermometer
Flexible scraper
Stick blender
Transfer Pipettes

PERCENTAGES

61.50% Water
20% Handcrafted Shea Butter
5% Conditioning Emulsifier
3% Stearic Acid
3% Cocoa Butter
2% Emulsifying Wax
2% Glycerin
1% Jojoba Oil
0.5% Beeswax
2% Dimethicone
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.25% Vitamin E Natural
0.25% Lemon Sugar Fragrance
QS Lemon Yellow dye

100-gram Test Batch

61.5 grams Water
20 grams Handcrafted Shea Butter
5 grams Conditioning Emulsifier
3 grams Stearic Acid
3 grams Cocoa Butter
2 grams Emulsifying Wax
2 grams Glycerin
1 gram Jojoba Oil
0.5 gram Beeswax
2 grams Dimethicone
0.5 gram Liquid Germall Plus
0.2 gram Vitamin E Natural
0.3 gram Lemon Sugar Fragrance
QS Lemon Yellow dye

INSTRUCTIONS

Weigh the first 9 ingredients into a microwave-safe container or double boiler. Heat gently until fully liquid. I have a tiny stick blender that I use with my small test batches. Though it tends to incorporate more air than I like, it’s perfect for making sure emulsions come together. I just use a flexible spatula to fold the mixture over several times to remove most of the air.

Once the mixture has cooled below 120ºF, add the Dimethicone, preservative, Natural Vitamin E, and fragrance. Stir well to thoroughly incorporate. At this point, if you want to add color, start with one drop of the Lemon Yellow Dye (premixed in a dropper bottle) and continue adding a drop at a time and mixing well until you reach the desired color.

Ingredients weighed before melting.

After melting and mixing.

NOTES

This made a heavy cream with plenty of body. The feeling after application was too waxy, however. This is likely due to using both Conditioning Emulsifier and Emulsifying Wax, plus there’s probably too much stearic acid. I liked the smoothness of the cream, and the scent was exactly what I had expected. Revision is definitely in order!

Check back tomorrow for more.

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About Denise

I'm a crazy goat lady who got into making my own soap with goat milk, found MMS to order supplies, and now I get to combine my love of creating skin care products with a job to pay the feed bill. I live in Alaska and greatly enjoy the unique aspects of my northern home - summer days when it never gets dark and the Northern Lights dancing above in winter. Favorite scents include Wild Mint and Ivy, Rhubarb & Sugar Cane, and Eucalyptus Spearmint.

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