| I’ve been trying to clean and organize my office and blog kitchen and while I’ve made some progress, I’ve discovered lots of projects that need to be made. I found two partial bottles of Wheat Germ Oil that needed to be used soon and I decided that the best way to use this oil was to make soap.
I decided to make a 1 pound test batch that had only Wheat Germ Oil and Coconut Oil.
Measure the fixed oils on your scale. Warm on the stove or in the microwave. I melted the fixed oils in the microwave. It only took about 45 seconds in my microwave to melt the Coconut Oil. Add sodium hydroxide to the water. Mix well. Combine the fixed oils and lye solution. Stir until thin trace. Stir well. Pour soap into molds. I used the Rubbermaid Drawer Organizers #2915. Allow to sit until soap is firm. The next morning cut into bars. Stack to allow good air circulation. Allow to cure for several days before using. Longer curing will result in a harder bar. Notes: 72 Hour Evaluation: 1) There was a moderate amount of big bubbles with an underlying dense lather. I hope this has helped you!
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 Finished soap.  Measured lye and water.  Beginning to mix the lye solution.  Stirring the lye solution.  Melted fixed oils and lye solution. |
 Adding the lye solution to the fixed oils.  Not quite to trace yet. |
 Mixing the fixed oils and lye solution together.  Pouring raw soap into the mold. |
The finished soap looks very light in color but the whole batch looks very orange. Please comment about the finished color. Thanks!
The finished soap is very light in color. While making this soap, the raw materials made the soap look orange. The color changed significantly after the 24 hours of resting.
Thanks for sharing this simple soap recipe! I love 2-and 3-oil soaps!
I had a question about the cleansing factor- I ran this through a lye calculator and it said that this is very highly cleansing (21, with 22 being the recommended max). I made a soap with about the same cleansing range, and the whole family said it was rather drying. (5 different people with 3 different skin types.)
Okay, long story short, my question. Is there something I could be doing in the soapmaking process that makes the soap more drying, or on the flipside, less conditioning? I always wondered about it since soaps I make even in the 13-15 “cleansing” range seem drying!
I don’t know if my question makes any sense, *lol*, but any suggestions you can offer would be appreciated! 🙂
Thank you!
What oils did you use for your batch of soap? What was the percentage of superfat? Sometimes the oils we use vary from crop to crop on how much material is actually saponifiable. This can change our soaps!
Do you have hard or soft water? The water can also effect the “drying” feel of a soap.
I’m glad I ran across this post. I have the same dilemma and wasn’t sure if a soap with just wheat germ and coconut oil would work. My ratios are a little bit different but I think it’ll be a good batch. Thank you.
I’m wondering how the soap was after several weeks? I’ve been afraid of DOS …
No DOS (dreaded orange spots). The soap was very nice. Go forth and TRY, young grasshopper!
Tina
Hey I was wondering if you would give us the weighted measurements
Are you wanting metrics?
Tina