Introduction to Soap Making – Day 9
|I adore roses. Pink ones, red ones, white ones, peachy ones! So when I was choosing a selection of oils to teach the basics of soap making, I couldn’t pass up the chance to use our Organic Rose Hip Oil. Why? Rose Hip Oil is great for all skin types but works particularly well with skin that needs a little TLC (tender loving care).
Rose Hip Oil is also used extensively in formulations for mature skin. Soaps with Rose Hip Oil are commonly request by my older family members for Christmas and/or birthdays. I love how it is requested by not just the women of the family but some of the men too! This makes it super easy to have great gifts ready all the time.
I chose our Organic Rose Hip because it has a little more color than our regular Rose Hip. I wanted my soap to have a natural yellow. This soap reminds me a little of some of the butter yellow colored roses that are available. Very pretty.
Just one ounce of Organic Rose Hip really added a lot color color to this bar. If you really like the color of this soap but want to use another luxury oil, you can use a botanical like paprika and infuse it into one of your base oils like coconut, palm or soy. These oils generally give a white bar, but don’t feel limited to a naturally white bar. The rainbow is the limit!
Weigh the oils into a microwave safe container. Place into the microwave and heat. While the oils are heating, weigh the lye. Slowly add the lye to your container of water. DO NOT add water to your container of lye. The two chemicals reacting can cause a dangerous volcano. It is best to create good safety habits before you make a batch of soap that is 20 lbs in size.
For most soaps, you will want to mix your oils and lye solution when both are somewhere between 110°F to 130°F. In the winter when your soaping area is cooler, you will want to soap at higher temperatures. In the summer when your soaping area is warmer, you will want to soap at cooler temperatures.
When your lye solution and oils are within the ideal temperature range, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Using either an immersion or a soap spoon, mix until you reach trace. Trace is when the raw soap has been mixed enough that oil will no longer rise to the surface when mixing is stopped. If you aren’t sure if you have achieve trace then stop mixing, go get a glass, fill it with water, do not drink it. Come back to your soap. Is oil floating on the surface?
Once trace is reached, you can pour the soap into a mold. Allow the soap to sit undisturbed for 12-24 hours. After the soap has been allowed to sit for up to 24 hours, you can unmold the soap and cut it. Arrange the cut bars of soap in an area where there is good air flow but they will not be in the way. I like to put them on a sheet of cardboard. You are now ready for the curing process. The curing process is just allow the soap to dry out, giving you a nice hard bar. You can use your soap immediately after cutting but it will not last as long as a fully cured bar.
A great way to determine if your bar has cured all the way is to use our Cure Cards! Did you know you can get them free in qualifying orders? How cool!