Category Archives: Soap

Alkanet Root Powder Soap

Today we will start with Alkanet Root Powder. Alkanet Powder is dark purple in color. It reminded me a little of blueberry fiber. It also smelled earthy and slightly fruity. I don’t expect the earthy woody odor to come through the soap but I could be wrong. Let’s go find out what happens! 

 

Notes: I must admit, I was surprised at how bold the color was with only 1 teaspoon of alkanet powder. I noticed there was not any staining of the skin during use. I was really worried that this soap would at least stain a wash cloth. Good news! It doesn’t! The lather is white although the water does have a mild blue tint from the soap.

I didn’t notice any strange odors coming through. It smelled like a plain bar of unscented soap. I am in love with the color though. I do want to use it at a lower usage rate and see how much that changes the color of the soap and if it still colors the soap with a nice blue without being quite so intense. I plan on doing that at a later date down the road. How does that sound? Would you make it with a lower percentage of alkanet or would you keep it the same?

I am really excited to make this soap with fragrance oils now. I am thinking bold fruity scents like Juicy Grape, Red Grape and Blueberry and Huckleberry. What fragrances oils do you want to pair with this beautiful and bold coloring botanical?

Ingredients
Palm Kernel Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter, Regular
Lye
Water
Alkanet Root Powder
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Soap Bucket
Gloves
Soaping Goggles

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170.1 Palm Kernel Oil
141.75 grams Coconut Oil
113.4 grams Olive Oil
28.35 grams Shea Butter, Regular
69.46 grams Lye
177 mL Water
1 tsp Alkanet Root Powder
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Palm Kernel Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter, Regular
2.45 oz Lye
6 fl oz Water
1 tsp Alkanet Root Powder
Recipe in Percentages
38% Palm Kernel Oil
31% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6% Shea Butter, Regular
Q.S. Lye
Q.S. Water
Q.S. Alkanet Root Powder

Weigh all of the oils into a microwave safe container. Heat gently until liquid. Add the Sodium Hydroxide to the water to form a lye solution. Allow the oils and the lye to cool to a lower temperature. We do not want to have the soap overheat and volcano. Mix the oils and lye solution and blend until trace is achieved. Add the botanical at this point. Stir well. Pour into a mold and allow to sit for 24 hours. Cut the soap. Allow the soap to cure. Longer curing time will result in a harder bar. Enjoy!

 

Taylor

Finished Soap
Finished Soap
Alkanet Powder
Alkanet Powder
Melted Oils
Melted Oils
Mixed Soap
Mixed Soap
Adding Alkanet Powder to Soap
Adding Alkanet Powder to Soap
Stirring Powder into Soap
Stirring Powder into Soap

Soap in Mold
Soap in Mold
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Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

A Botanical Soap Sneak Peek!

I wanted to give everyone a little sneak peek to what to expect here on the blog for the next little bit. We added several botanicals to our catalog and I have been dying to make some soap with them. I can’t wait to see these in action and I know I can’t be the only one. Come join me for this botanical fun!Now I will be making soap using one pound of oils. Let me give you a little run through of my recipe so if you would like you can join me! Not only will I be making soaps with these botanicals, I will also be comparing a milk soap made with each botanical versus a soap not made with milk. Our recipe will have Palm Kernel Oil, Coconut Oil, Olive Oil and Shea Butter. Palm Kernel Oil gives a firm white bar with big lather similar to Coconut Oil. Olive Oil contributes a smaller denser lather while Shea Butter contributes a richness to the lather that makes the skin feel supple and soft. Here is my basic recipe.

6 oz Palm Kernel Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter, Regular

2.45 oz lye

This will put this recipe at 6% excess fat.

For this recipe, I will need to use 6 oz water or if I am doing a milk soap, 3 oz water and 3 oz milk. Weigh your oils. Mix your lye into your water and set aside to cool a little. Heat your gently until they are liquid. I heat it a little bit at a time and stir it frequently to avoid superheating my oils. When both my oils and lye solution are about 130°F I will add my lye solution to my oils and start to mix. As soon as I reach a light trace, I will add my botanical. I will use 1 teaspoon of botanical for each batch of soap. If making a milk soap, add your milk at this time. (If you so desire, this is the time when you would add a fragrance or essential oil. I will not be adding any so I can see if any odors come through from the botanicals.) Stir in well. Pour into mold and allow to sit for 24 hours. Remove from mold and cut. Allow your soap to cure. Longer curing time will result in a harder bar.

If this seems confusing, don’t worry. I will cover this with every batch of soap. I will also include my notes and thoughts I have about mixing the soap, odor and final colors. It will be a great series!

I can’t wait to get started! If you want to join me for this adventure, make sure you have all of the supplies on hand! I promise you won’t want to miss out on this!

Here is a quick reminder of all of the botanicals we will be using. Alkanet Root Powder, Annatto Seed Powder, Kelp Powder, Madder Root Powder, Olive Leaf Powder, Orange Peel Powder, Paprika Powder, Safflower Powder and Spirulina Powder. See you in the blog kitchen!

Taylor

These are all of the botanicals we will be using.
These are all of the botanicals we will be using.

Labeled Botanicals
Labeled Botanicals
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Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Basic Soap Making Class – Soap Makers Package

Are you getting ready to take the Basic Soap Making class that is coming up in April? I know that several of you have expressed interest in these classes so don’t forget to sign up soon. Class space is limited and the classes will fill up fast.

I wanted to let you know about the Soap Makers Package that is included in your registration fees. The soap makers package is put together for each student to make several batches of soap in class as well as giving you all the necessary supplies to make soap at home.

The Soap Makers Package includes the following supplies:
Scale
Soap Spoon
Goggles
Thermometer
Soap supplies for you to make your own batches of soap
Literature and “how to” of soap making

All of this is yours to keep after the class so you are completely ready to make your own soap at home. What a great value!

This is a beginners class intended for those who want to learn to make soap, it is appropriate for those who have less than 10 batches of soap under their belt.

Class in Nibley! Saturday, April 6th, 2013 at 10:00AM!
Class in Nibley! Saturday, April 6th, 2013 at 1:00PM!
Class in Nibley! Saturday, April 20th, 2013 at 10:00AM!
Class in Nibley! Saturday, April 20th, 2013 at 1:00PM!

Class in Riverton! Thursday, April 11th, 2013 at 6:00PM!
Class in Riverton! Thursday, April 25th, 2013 at 6:00PM!

Clothing Requirements: Please wear comfortable clothing. A long sleeve shirt and pants are best to help protect your skin. An extra pair of clothes is never a bad idea. Closed toe shoes are a requirement for the classroom. If you have long hair, please pull it back before coming to class.

Class size is limited so call today and reserve your seat!
Class fee: $80.00 each class, this will cover the cost of all materials and instruction.
Register by calling our office: 435.755.0863, preregistration is required.
Business Hours: Monday – Friday 8:00AM – 4:00PM.

I can’t wait to see you soon!

Tonya

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Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Recipes We Are Making in the Lotion Classes

Call now and reserve your spot in the Making Lotions from Scratch class! We will demonstrate a variety of ingredients that can be used to make lotions and we will show you all the tricks we use in making lotions from scratch. Everyone in class will be able to formulate their own recipes as well as take home several recipes from the class. You get to learn, play and then take home some great products, all made by you!

Recipes that we will be making!

Facial Moisturizer
Doubly Minty Foot Cream
Light Daily Hand Lotion
Creamed Shea Body Butter

Class in Nibley! Saturday, March 23rd, 2013 at 10:00AM!

Class in Riverton! Thursday, March 28th, 2013 at 6:00PM!

Class fee: $20.00 each class.
Register by calling our office: 435.755.0863, preregistration is required.
Business Hours: Monday – Friday 8:00AM – 4:00PM.

I’m so excited to have some new lotions and creams!

See you soon!

Tonya

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Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Coconut Soap

I am in love with coconut. I love the smell and the taste. It speaks of beaches, warm breezes and luxury. It even reminds me of curries! With the cooler weather we have been having, I am ready for a warm sunny day that I can go sit in the sun, drink frozen smoothies and read a book. Since I can’t go out to have fun, I am going to bring it in to me! Come join me all this week for some coconut scented fun! 

As tribute to the fact that I had planned a coconut scented soap, I wanted to use coconut oil. However I had one of the biggest tragedies a soaper can ever run across. I was out of coconut oil! I could not believe it! I have never had that happen before. I was so distraught that I had considered holding off on making this soap but I decided that in light of this tragedy, I definitely needed to bring some sunshine fun to me.

Instead of using Coconut Oil, I decided to use Palm Oil. While it doesn’t create the big, bubbly lather that Coconut Oil does, it does assist with a nice dense, almost creamy lather. I love that really thick lather that just covers your hands.

I also used Hydrogenated Soybean Oil. It contributes hardness to the bar and again dense, creamy lather. It also makes a smooth, hard white bar. I know that our Coconut Fragrance Oil discolors to a tan to light brown color so I wanted to keep it as smooth and as light as possible.

Another oil I used in this formulation was Olive Oil. I really enjoy using Olive Oil. Sometimes a pure Olive Oil soap can feel slimy to me but match it with other oils and I find it dreamy! It creates a dense lather and a conditioning sensation to the skin.

I wanted to use a luxury oil in this recipe. I decided on Shea Butter. Shea Butter is one of my favorite luxury oils for soap. I personally think it adds a creaminess and conditioning that is perfect for this get-away-in-a-bar of Coconut soap. Are you ready to make soap now? Let’s go!

Ingredients
Palm Oil
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Water
Lye
Coconut Fragrance Oil
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170.1 Palm Oil
141.75 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
113.4 grams Olive Oil
28.35 grams Shea Butter, Regular
177 mL Water
69.46 grams Lye
8.5 grams Coconut Fragrance Oil
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Palm Oil
5 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
6 oz Water
2.07 oz Lye
.3 oz Coconut Fragrance Oil
Recipe in Percentages
38% Palm Oil
31% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
25% Olive Oil
6% Shea Butter
Q.S. Water
Q.S. Lye
Q.S. Coconut Fragrance Oil

 

Weigh all of the oils into a microwave safe container. Heat gently until liquid. Add the Sodium Hydroxide to the water to form a lye solution. Allow the oils and the lye to cool to a lower temperature. We do not want to have the soap overheat and volcano. Mix the oils and lye solution and blend until trace is achieved. Pour into a mold and allow to sit for 24 hours. Cut the soap. Allow the soap to cure. Longer curing time will result in a harder bar. Enjoy!

Notes: This finished soap had a much denser lather than what I am used to. It was definitely a lot of fun though. This is a perfect soap for felting wool around. If you are curious, check out my post on Wool Wrapped Soap here! They are such fun projects to do!

Taylor

 

Finished Soap
Finished Soap
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Melted Oils
Melted Oils
Adding Lye Solution to melted oils
Adding Lye Solution to melted oils
Mixing Oils and Lye Solution
Mixing Oils and Lye Solution
Mixing Soap
Mixing Soap

Adding Coconut Fragrance Oil to Soap
Adding Coconut Fragrance Oil to Soap
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Rating: 5.0/5 (2 votes cast)

Using Snake Oil in Cold Process Soap

Ready for our second day of experimenting with snake oil? I am! Yesterday when we made a hand cream with snake oil, I told you I would also share my snake oil soap experience with you. Let’s go!

After a bit of research, I discovered that the snake oil Jerry had ordered for me had the same saponification value as Emu Oil. That made my lye (sodium hydroxide) calculations easy! I simply used our Lye Calculator and marked my desired amount of snake amount as Emu Oil for the calculation.When I made the soap, I was worried that the “meaty” scent of the snake oil would stay with the soap and make it undesirable. I was lucky! The soap didn’t keep the scent and even heated up to completely gel. The gelling is what caused the “artistic outer space” look of the soaps. It was hard to get a good picture of the soap, but I did a pretty good job!

Let’s go make some snake oil soap!

Soap after being cut.
Soap after being cut.
Collect needed items:

Ingredients
Palm Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Snake Oil (You can use Emu Oil with no difference to the texture of the recipe.)
Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Equipment
Scale
Soap Spoon
Gloves
Mold of your choice (I’m using an empty milk carton, quart sized.)
Immersion Blender

Recipe:

Recipe in ounces:
6 ounces Palm Oil
5 ounces Coconut Oil
4 ounces Olive Oil
1 ounce Snake Oil
2.3 ounces Sodium Hydroxide
6 ounces Water
Recipe in grams:
170.1 grams Palm Oil
141.8 grams Coconut Oil
113.4 grams Olive Oil
28.4 grams Snake Oil
65.2 grams Sodium Hydroxide
177 milliliters Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Palm Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Snake Oil
q.s. Sodium Hydroxide
q.s. Water

*q.s. = Quantity Sufficient. This is an ingredient that needs to have the amount calculated to match the size of batch that you are making.

Making Soap:
Measure fixed oils on your scale. Warm the fixed oils on the stove or in the microwave. I melted the oils on the stove in a double boiler. Add sodium hydroxide to the water. Mix well. Combine oils and lye solution. Mix until thin trace.Pour soap into the desired mold. Allow to sit until soap is firm. The next morning cut into bars. Stack to allow good air circulation. Allow to cure for several days before using. Longer curing will result in a harder bar.

Soap Notes: This soap had a light “soapy” scent that didn’t change after a few days of curing. The soap had a creamy lather that was mostly small bubbles with a few big bubbles that I made just using my hands. I liked the feeling that the soap left on my skin after washing. I tried this soap on my hands, body and face with no problems! I think I would use this soap as a gift for my elderly family members as I think they would like it most.

What do you think? Would you try this soap?

Weighing the oils to be melted.
Weighing the oils to be melted.
Completely melted oils.
Completely melted oils.
Adding the lye solution to the melted oils.
Adding the lye solution to the melted oils.

My recipe with my notes.
My recipe with my notes.
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Rating: 5.0/5 (1 vote cast)

Carrot Juice Soap

At the beginning of February, I shared a picture of a large carrot with you. I asked if I should make a soap with the carrot. Your responses helped me decide that I would make a soap with carrot juice.

I wanted to make sure that my soap succeeded, so I chose to make the soap using the half and half method. The half and half method is called this because of all your liquids, you use half water, half alternative liquid, and add the alternative liquid half way through the blending of the batch.

Let’s go make some soap!

Collect needed items:

Ingredients
Palm Kernel Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter, Refined
Water
Carrot Juice from carrots and water
Sodium Hydroxide
Equipment
Scale
Soap Spoon
Gloves
Mold of your choice (I’m using an empty milk carton, quart sized.)
Immersion Blender

Recipe:

Recipe in ounces:
6 ounces Palm Kernel Oil
5 ounces Coconut Oil
4 ounces Olive Oil
1 ounces Shea Butter, Refined
3 ounces Water
3 ounces Carrot Juice
2.45 ounces Sodium Hydroxide (6% Superfat)
Recipe in grams:
169.9 grams Palm Kernel Oil
141.6 grams Coconut Oil
113.2 grams Olive Oil
28.3 grams Shea Butter, Refined
85 grams Water
85 grams Carrot Juice
69.4 grams Sodium Hydroxide (6% Superfat)
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Palm Kernel Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Shea Butter, Refined
q.s. Water
q.s. Carrot Juice
q.s. Sodium Hydroxide (6% Superfat)

*q.s. = Quantity Sufficient. This is an ingredient that needs to have the amount calculated to match the size of batch that you are making.

Making Carrot Juice:
I made the carrot juice by chopping the carrot into small chunks and placing the chunks in a blender. I then added approximately 1/4 cup of hot water and turned on the blender. Unfortunately, I learned that the blender I was using doesn’t turn raw carrots and water into carrot juice. :| It took nearly 15 minutes to get 6 ounces of carrot juice! Next time I make carrot juice with a similar blender, I will steam or boil the carrots first and then mix with water in a blender to make carrot juice. (Or use a high quality, high efficiency blender!)

Making Soap:
Measure fixed oils on your scale. Warm the fixed oils on the stove or in the microwave. I melted the oils on the stove in a double boiler. Add sodium hydroxide to the water. Mix well. Combine oils and lye solution. Mix until thin trace. Add carrot juice. Pour soap into the desired mold. Allow to sit until soap is firm. The next morning cut into bars. Stack to allow good air circulation. Allow to cure for several days before using. Longer curing will result in a harder bar.

Soap Notes: This soap had a light, clean, and sweet “soapy” scent that was around even after sitting around for a week. The soap color did change to a greenish color, but I still think the soap is very pretty! The soap had a wonderful lather that was a mixture of big and small bubbles that I made just with my hands. I loved the feeling that the soap left on my skin after washing. I tried this soap on my hands, body and face with no problems! I think I’ll make another batch of soap as a gift for my mother-in-law for her birthday!

What do you think? Would you try this soap?

Cut bars of soap.
Cut bars of soap.

Melted oils, lye solution, and carrot juice.
Melted oils, lye solution, and carrot juice.
Pouring the lye solution into the melted oils.
Pouring the lye solution into the melted oils.
Pouring the carrot juice into the raw soap.
Pouring the carrot juice into the raw soap.

After pouring the carrot juice into the raw soap.
After pouring the carrot juice into the raw soap.

Mixing the carrot juice in the raw soap.
Mixing the carrot juice in the raw soap.

Soap poured into the mold.
Soap poured into the mold.

Recipe calculation using the Lye Calculator.
Recipe calculation using the Lye Calculator.
After mixing the carrot juice into the raw soap.
After mixing the carrot juice into the raw soap.

Soap after being removed from the mold.
Soap after being removed from the mold.
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Rating: 5.0/5 (3 votes cast)

Coffee Oil Soap

Okay, I admit I am a complete and total Java junkie. However China is a predominately a tea drinking culture. Don’t get me wrong, I love tea. I just happen to be craving coffee and it kills me because here in a Beijing a simple cup of joe is a little more expensive than what I am used to. By the end of the week, we will have a coffee lovers dream body care basket! So come join me for a good old fashioned coffee fix.

 

I wanted to start this coffee fix goodie basket with a soap. I mean, can you think of a better pick me up than a coffee soap as you groggily stumble into the shower in the morning? I can’t! I think a coffee soap sounds so good I might need to have a bar at every sink, including the ones at work! Yum!

For this recipe, I only used a quarter of an ounce of coffee oil. I thought it would give me a nice strong scent while still allowing the soap to be economical to make. I thought a full ounce of coffee oil would actually be overpowering. Also, only use a quarter of an ounce still made made me comfortable enough to use another luxury oil. Isn’t that great?!

Coffee lovers, take heart! If the expense of the coffee oil has deterred you before, let it no longer! While it seem a little pricy, so little is actually needed that it is actually quiet economical to add to you cupboard. Try some today. You will be glad you did!

I used Palm Kernel Oil so I would have a nice firm bar and lots of wonderful lather. Palm Kernel Oil is one of my favorite oils for soap. I am easily distraught if I have run out! It is a great oil to have on hand. It is also economical. It makes a wonderful bar of soap without making the cost rocket sky high.

Hydrogenated Soybean Oil also helps keep the cost of the soap down. Its benefits are that is is easily found, makes a smooth hard bar. It also makes a beautiful white bar. This contributed to the Latte like color of the soap. Isn’t it beautiful?

Another easily found oil is Olive Oil. I like Olive Oil because it gives a soap a very dense, creamy lather. I always feel like when blended with other oils that have lots of lather, you have the perfect bar. Olive Oil is also conditioning to the skin. Have you ever used a bar of soap that is made just from Olive Oil? Try one! The lather and your skin feel heavenly!

I wanted to use another luxury oil besides the Coffee Oil in this recipe. I decided on Shea Butter. Shea Butter is one of my favorite luxury oils for soap. I personally think it adds a creaminess and conditioning that perfect for the this delectable bar of Coffee Oil soap. Are you ready to make soap now? Let’s go!

 

Ingredients
Palm Kernel Oil
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Coffee OilLye (Sodium Hydroxide)
Water
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Mold

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Palm Kernel Oil
142 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
113 grams Olive Oil
21 grams Shea Butter
7 grams Coffee Oil
62 grams Lye
177 mL Water
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Palm Kernel Oil
5 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
0.75 oz Shea Butter
0.25 oz Coffee Oil2.22 oz Lye
6 oz Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Palm Kernel Oil
31% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
25% Olive Oil
4.9% Shea Butter
1.6% Coffee OilQ.S. Lye
Q.S. Water

 

Weigh all of the oils into a microwave safe container. Heat gently until liquid. Add the Sodium Hydroxide to the water to form a lye solution. Allow the oils and the lye to cool to a lower temperature. We do not want to have the soap overheat and volcano. Mix the oils and lye solution and blend until trace is achieved. Pour into a mold and allow to sit for 24 hours. Cut the soap. Allow the soap to cure. Longer curing time will result in a harder bar. Enjoy!

 

Taylor

Finished Coffee Soap
Finished Coffee Soap
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Heated Oils
Heated Oils
Adding Lye Solution to Oils
Adding Lye Solution to Oils
Mixing Soap
Mixing Soap

Soap in Mold
Soap in Mold
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Rating: 5.0/5 (3 votes cast)

Curing Soap

20130131-110955.jpgWe get a lot of questions about curing soap. The typical thought of our callers is that soap is dangerous until it has cured for 3 to 6 weeks. This is dangerous thinking! Soap is a fantastic chemical reaction between a fat and an alkali. The resulting product is a synergy of these two items, fat + alkali = soap. In times long ago many items were cleaned with fats. Can you imagine cleaning with fats and oils? Most likely you can’t. We all know how harsh some modern chemical cleaners are, and we often wear gloves when using these types of products. Soap is a wonderful blend which is greater than either of its components, the synergy that sparks our interest and excites our minds.

So, how does one tell when their soap is cured and why is curing needed if the soap is not dangerous? First, it is important to understand the phase we call cure time or curing. This length of time is location and weather dependent. Curing is used to have each bar of soap come to an equilibrium of how much water the soap retains, a balance between soap and atmosphere. Curing is to allow each soap to dry to the fullest extent allowed in each location so the resulting bar can last as long as possible. When using soap that is 24 hours old we know the soap quickly reduces in size because too much soap is being used at each washing, the soap is dissolving too quickly and going right down the drain. Keeping a cured soap dry between uses is important. So, curing is essentially dehydrating. Because we are not adding any other means than maybe a fan in a room with good air circulation we don’t think of this as a mechanical means of dehydrating, but drying is nonetheless what is happening. How does one tell the soap has cured? Easy! Use your scale!

A scale is the most valuable tool we use in making soap. Some would argue that they could never give up their immersion blenders but I will argue that there is nothing to blend until the weight of the oils and fats is known. I’m not the most excited person when thinking of hand stirring a large batch of soap, but I certainly will draw the line that my scale is my most valued lab tool.

So… how do we do this? CURE CARDS to the rescue! We printed a quick reference card to help you with your record keeping. Each pad has 50 sheets of of CURE CARDS, peel one off and use with each batch you are curing. Write the name of the batch and date it was made. Then stack your cut bars to dry. Pin the card down with the lead bar in each curing stack. Weigh that lead soap every few days and record the date and weight. When your soap stops losing weight then your soap is fully cured! These card packs are now in our catalog and can be had for free through our Free Gifts and Teas program. Isn’t this great? I am really excited to share my no-fail method of knowing when a soap is cured. Once your soap has cured, keep this CURE CARD in your records so you will know how long the batch has cured before being wrapped for sale. You do keep records, don’t you?

Tina

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Rating: 5.0/5 (8 votes cast)

Using Lard in Soap, Day Two

I made two batches of soap with lard at the same time, so today we will look at the second batch I made. I didn’t want to change the basic formula other than adding a few extras. So, I made the same formula with only changes in my additives!

Yesterday, Karen asked me if the soap had an odd or bad odor. Well, it smells like peanuts. This is an odd smell, but workable. I definitely wouldn’t use roasted peanut oil. I’ll have to try another batch of soap with different oils to learn about the scent the lard contributes.

At the time I made these soaps I didn’t know if the peanut oil or lard would contribute a scent, so I decided to add Cedarwood Virginia Essential Oil and Rhassoul Clay to my second batch. This blended well with the nutty scent and makes a good smelling soap. (Even if it still feels like the soap from yesterday, it just smells better!)

Come join me in the kitchen as I show making a batch of soap with lard!

Collect needed items:

Ingredients
Lard
Olive Oil
Roasted Peanut Oil (Use regular Peanut Oil instead of Roasted)
Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Rhassoul Clay
Cedarwood Virginia Essential Oil
Equipment
Scale
Soap Spoon
Gloves
Mold of your choice (I’m using a wood tissue box cover!)
Immersion Blender
Recipe in ounces:
6 ounces Lard
6 ounces Olive Oil
6 ounces Roasted Peanut Oil

2.31 ounces Sodium Hydroxide (6% Superfat)
7 ounces Water

1 Tablespoon Rhassoul Clay
0.18 ounces Cedarwood Virginia Essential Oil (Subtle Fragrance Load at 1%)

Recipe in grams:
170 grams Lard
170 grams Olive Oil
170 grams Roasted Peanut Oil

65.46 grams Sodium Hydroxide (6% Superfat)
190 grams Water

1 Tablespoon Rhassoul Clay
5.1 grams Cedarwood Virginia Essential Oil (Subtle Fragrance Load at 1%)

Recipe in Percentages
33.33% Lard
33.33% Olive Oil
33.33% Roasted Peanut Oil

q.s. Sodium Hydroxide (6% Superfat)
q.s. Water

q.s. Rhassoul Clay
q.s. Cedarwood Virginia Essential Oil

*q.s. = Quantity Sufficient. This is an ingredient that needs to have the amount calculated to match the size of batch that you are making.

Measure fixed oils on your scale. Warm the fixed oils on the stove or in the microwave. I melted the oils on the stove in a double boiler. Add sodium hydroxide to the water. Mix well. Combine oils and lye solution. Mix until thin trace. Pour soap into the desired mold. Allow to sit until soap is firm. The next morning cut into bars. Stack to allow good air circulation. Allow to cure for several days before using. Longer curing will result in a harder bar.

Soap Notes: The lather of this soap didn’t change in comparison to the soap I made yesterday, but it was “silkier” in feeling. I loved the feel and I even tried it as a shaving soap. Very nice glide!

What do you think?

Cut bars of soap.
Cut bars of soap.

Measuring the oils.
Measuring the oils.
Mixing the Sodium Hydroxide and water.
Mixing the Sodium Hydroxide and water.
Mixed lye solution.
Mixed lye solution.

Adding the lye solution to the oils.
Adding the lye solution to the oils.

Mixing the clay into the raw soap.
Mixing the clay into the raw soap.

Soap in the mold.
Soap in the mold.
After mixing the clay into the raw soap.
After mixing the clay into the raw soap.

Preparing to cut the soap.
Preparing to cut the soap.
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