Category Archives: Soap

Soap in Sheep’s clothing – Making Felted Soaps

Finished Felted Soaps
Finished Felted Soaps

There is nothing more amazing or spectacular than using a bar of homemade soap. So how do we make the experience of using handmade soap all that much more fun? We put it in sheep’s clothing of course! Today I will be sharing with you how to make felted soaps.

 

Fanning out the roving
Fanning out the roving

To begin we will need some bars of soap, wool roving and a bucket of hot water. This is a great place to use bars that may be a test batch or are even cosmetically challenged. If you need a place to find roving, check at your local yarn store.

Take about 2 feet of roving and fan it out so it appears lacy. Wrap your soap firmly until

Wrapping the soap in roving
Wrapping the soap in roving

you can no longer see the bar. Dunk the bar into your bucket of hot water and agitate the roving. Use small motions so the roving stays in place. Continue to agitate until the roving is a firm dense mass around the soap. The roving should not be able to move freely. If you are having a hard time, replace your water for something hotter and just keep agitating. Also the cooler your water, the longer it will take to felt. Keep it as hot as you can stand and it will work beautifully.

Wrapping the soap in roving
Wrapping the soap in roving

Once your roving has felted around your soap, pat them dry with a paper towel then set them out to dry. I really like to put them on a cookie rack or a wire shelf where they can dry out more completely. Repeat with your remaining soaps.

This project is a lot of fun because there is so much you can do. You can use colored

Wrapping my soap
Wrapping my soap

roving, you can hide cosmetically challenged bars and simplify using soap because it has a built in foam builder that shrinks with your bar! This is even a great project for those who will be traveling but don’t want to carry around a wash cloth with them!

What other great reasons can you think of for using and making felted soaps? I want to hear!

Ready to dunk my soap
Ready to dunk my soap

Taylor

 

 

 

 

 

Felting the wool
Felting the wool

 

 

 

 

 

Felting the wool
Felting the wool

 

 

 

 

 

Bubbles!
Bubbles!

 

 

 

 

 

Finished felted soap
Finished felted soap
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Cluck, cluck! Egg Soap Anyone?

I haven’t even sent samples of this soap down to the shipping department and I can already hear the cries of intrigue, revulsion and curiosity about today’s project. Eggs? In soap? Why would ANYONE be so crazy as to want to add an egg to the soap?!

 

Well, adding eggs to soap may or may not be crazy but allow me to explain the reasoning behind this. Eggs are a combination of water, fat and protein. This means egg soaps are a bit like a lanolin soap. Very luxurious and gentle feeling. One thing I hear frequently about lanolin soaps it that people feel like there is no need to add lotion to their skin afterward! I heard this about egg soaps too! Don’t believe me? Request a sample of this soap in your next order!

Ingredients
Coconut Oil
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Olive Oil
Large Chicken Egg
Water
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Coconut Oil
142 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Olive Oil
1 large Chicken Egg
178 mL Water
65.5 grams Lye
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Coconut Oil
5 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Olive Oil
1 large Chicken Egg
6 oz Water
2.31 oz Lye
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Coconut Oil
31.25% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31.25% Olive Oil
Q.S. Chicken Egg(s)
Q.S. Water
Q.S. Lye

 

Weigh all of your oils save for 1 oz of Olive Oil to be held in reserve. Heat those oil gently until liquid. Mix your lye and water together creating your lye solution. Allow both mixtures to cool. It is imperative that you soap at a lower temperature when using eggs. They are a temperature sensitive ingredient. (We don’t want partially cooked egg strands in our soap!) In the mean time, mix the egg with the 1 oz of reserved Olive Oil. Mix well until they are cohesive.

Once your lye solution and oils are to about 110º to 120ºF in temperature, mix the two together. When a light trace has been achieved, add your egg mixture. Mix well. Pour your soap into a mold and allow to sit for at least 24 hours. Cut your soap into bars and allow to cure. (Not sure if your soap is fully cured? Get these cool cure cards in your next order for free!)

Notes: I cut my egg soap two days after making. Let’s just say that as excited as I was about this soap, I got a little distracted by my job. Hmn… I wonder how that happened? ;-) Once I finally cut my soap, I was surprised at the soft green of the center of my soap. There also was faint odor. It smelled… well… slightly eggy. 15 minutes after cutting the soap, I went back to smell it so as to better describe it to you. I was surprised at how much the odor had dissipated. So if you are worried about that smell sticking around, it won’t. I will be sending 20 samples to the shipping department so if you want one, tell us in the comments field on your next order! I am reserving the two bars shown in the photos so we can talk about color changes when the soap is fully cured.

 
Taylor

Finished Soap
Finished Soap
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Weighing Oils
Weighing 1 oz Olive Oil
Weighing 1 oz Olive Oil
Adding 1 egg
Adding 1 egg
Ready to make soap
Ready to make soap
Mixing Egg and Olive Oil
Mixing Egg and Olive Oil
Adding Lye Solution to Oils
Adding Lye Solution to Oils
Mixing Soap
Mixing Soap
Soap at light trace
Soap at light trace
Adding egg mixture
Adding egg mixture
Pouring soap into mold
Pouring soap into mold

Finished soap in mold
Finished soap in mold
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Rosemary Oleoresin 2% and 5% in soap

About two weeks ago, I announced that Rosemary 2% and 5% both have saponification values. I must admit, I was rather startled how high those saponification values were. If you missed the post, read up on it here!

Today I wanted to make two soaps comparing the Rosemary Oleoresin 2% and Rosemary Oleoresin 5%. I wanted to know if the difference between the saponification values would make a noticeable difference in finished soap. Come join me to try these two soaps!
Collect Needed Materials:

Ingredients
Coconut Oil
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Olive Oil
Rosemary Extract
Water
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)
Equipment
Scale
Spoon
Soap Bucket
Pipettes
Mold

 

Batch 1:

Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Coconut Oil
5 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Olive Oil
0.5 oz Rosemary Oleoresin 2%
6 fl oz Water
2.31 oz Lye
Recipe in Grams
170 grams Coconut Oil
142 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Olive Oil
14 grams Rosemary Oleoresin 2%
178 mL Water
65.5 grams Lye
Recipe in Percentages
37% Coconut Oil
31% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31% Olive Oil
3% Rosemary Oleoresin 2%
Q.S. Water
Q.S. Lye

 

Batch 2:

Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Coconut Oil
5 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Olive Oil
0.5 oz Rosemary Oleoresin 5%
6 fl oz Water
2.31 oz Lye
Recipe in Grams
170 grams Coconut Oil
142 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Olive Oil
14 grams Rosemary Oleoresin 5%
178 mL Water
65.5 grams Lye
Recipe in Percentages
37% Coconut Oil
31% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31% Olive Oil
3% Rosemary Oleoresin 5%
Q.S. Water
Q.S. Lye

 

Weigh all of the oils of Batch 1 into a microwave safe container. Heat gently until liquid. Add the lye to the water to for a lye solution. Allow the oil and lye solutions to cool. This recipe has some material that can accelerate trace. Cooler temperatures are better. Mix the oils and lye solution and blend until a light trace is achieved. Pour into a molds and allow to sit for 24 hours. Repeat the process with Batch 2.

After 24 hours cut the soap. Allow the soap to cure. Longer curing time will result in a harder bar. (If you aren’t sure if your soap is fully cured, check out this post. It helps make sense of a confusing topic.) Test your soaps and write down your notes. Which did you like more? Why? Would you ever make these again? Enjoy!

 

Notes: I washed each hand with each soap. My right hand used the 5% soap and my left hand used the 2% soap. After patting my hands dry, I was surprised that I could tell a difference between the soaps. The soap with the Rosemary Oleoresin 2% had a lighter feel. My left hand felt clean, smooth and normal. My right hand felt clean, velvety and like I had just rubbed in a tiny amount of Dimethicone into my skin. I definitely like the soap with the Rosemary Oleoresin 5% more. It left my skin soft and velvety without a heavy feeling residue.

I will be sending out 27 samples containing both soaps for you to try. Request one in your next order! I want to hear which one you like best.
Taylor

Rosemary Oleoresin Soaps 2% is on the right and 5% is on left.
Rosemary Oleoresin Soaps
2% is on the right and 5% is on left.
Weighing Batch 1
Weighing Batch 1
Weighing Batch 1
Weighing Batch 1
Weighing Batch 2
Weighing Batch 2
Weighing Batch 2
Weighing Batch 2
Adding Lye Solution to Batch 1
Adding Lye Solution to Batch 1
Ready to Mix Batch 1
Ready to Mix Batch 1
Ready to Mix Batch 1
Ready to Mix Batch 1
Mixing Batch 1
Mixing Batch 1
Mixing Batch 1
Mixing Batch 1
Pouring Batch 1 into mold
Pouring Batch 1 into mold
Batch 1 in the mold
Batch 1 in the mold
Ready to mix Batch 2
Ready to mix Batch 2
Mixing Batch 2
Mixing Batch 2
Pouring Batch 2 into the mold
Pouring Batch 2 into the mold
Watching Batch 2 change colors
Watching Batch 2 change colors
Watching Batch 2 change colors
Watching Batch 2 change colors
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Caramel Apple Cold Process Soap

Finished bars of soap after being cut.
Finished bars of soap after being cut.
I remember being a teen and having braces. While they were uncomfortable to wear, I remember helping my mom make batches of soft, melt-in-your-mouth caramel that I could eat without damaging my braces. One time, we made a mistake and ended up with a fantastic caramel sauce that was delicious drizzled over apple slices. We still make the caramel sauce to this day and it is always enjoyed!

The release of our new Green Apple and Caramel Toffee flavors had me thinking about the caramels that we used to make and how I loved to pair the caramel sauce with apples. Since I’ve made a Caramel Apple Lip balm, I have to make a soap that is complementary. Come with me and we’ll make a great batch of Caramel Apple Soap!

Continue reading

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Fragrance Testing in Cold Process Soap: Emmett, Osmanthus, Cucumbers & Melons and Frosted Cupcake

I have more photos for our Fragrance Testing Series! While these tests are a good indicator of how these fragrances will behave, this does not eliminate the need for you to test each fragrance with your own particular formulas.

Emmett scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Emmett scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Our first fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Emmett. According to our catalog, Emmett is a “very masculine scent of bay, rum, lime, mahogany, amber, vanilla and bergamot.” Emmett is a smooth and clean scent that makes me think of mountain air . This masculine combination of wood and citrus makes Elements of Bamboo bring peace, tranquility and balance to mind.

There was very slight discoloration of note, a light tan color. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.


Our second fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Osmanthus. According to our catalog, Osmanthus is “sensual, fresh, fruit and herbaceous and wonderfully calming. I think it is the best ever! It can be a personal signature scent so easily.” Osmanthus is a charming fragrance and is one of our most popular scents when we have personal projects that we need to find a scent that almost everybody will like. This fragrance is incredibly true to the fresh Osmanthus trees that I got to smell at the Summer Palace in Beijing!

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make any swirl you have always been dreaming of without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Osmanthus scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Osmanthus scented soap on the left and control on the right.

Cucumbers & Melons scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Cucumbers & Melons scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Our third fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Cucumbers & Melons. According to our catalog, Cucumbers & Melons is “A perfect blend on melons and cucumber with incredible results in cold process soap!” I find Cucumbers & Melons to be … indescribably refreshing. I know the scent is a combination of melons with cucumbers, but this fragrance always makes me smile and feel like I can tackle my day head on!

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make a green and yellow swirl without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.


Our fourth fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Frosted Cupcakes. According to our catalog, Frosted Cupcakes is a “blend of sugar, cinnamon, caramel and pecans. Imagine a German chocolate cake (without the cake) in a graham cracker crust. That caramel scent seems like home-baked fun.” This fragrance is one of my favorites! I love using it in room sprays and salt potpourri because it makes the kitchen smell like I’ve been slaving away over dessert when in reality, it only took me a few minutes to pull something from the freezer and pop it in the oven!

There is a moderate amount of discoloration of note, a very nice shade of soft brown hues. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Frosted Cupcakes scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Frosted Cupcakes scented soap on the left and control on the right.

Here are the details about our test batches before we added any fragrances!

Ingredients
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Water
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Soap Mold

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Coconut Oil
113 grams Olive Oil
29 grams Shea Butter
64 grams Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
177 mL Water
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
2.26 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
6 fl oz Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Shea Butter
Q.S. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Q.S. Water

Our temperatures for lye and oils are between 125°F and 130°F.. We make our soap with a 6% superfat. All of the batches we make are mixed to light trace and then the fragrance is added. After the fragrance is added we mix until the fragrance is incorporated and then we pour into the mold.

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Soap & Sage Leaves: Cold Process Soap with an Oil Infusion

Sage is one of my favorite herbs. Now, I might be a little biased due to our name, but I love the scent of sun kissed sage in the afternoon. The warm, herbal scent is comforting to me. It doesn’t bring much of the way in food memories to mind, since I primarily grow the plant just for the looks rather than culinary uses.

As I can’t go anywhere without thinking what would be fun to use in soap, I decided to harvest some of the sage leaves and dry them for use in soap. I collected the leaves I wanted and then dried them on a cooling rack used for baking. It didn’t take much time for the sage leaves to dry in our arid Utah climate! After the sage had dried, I had a brown lunch bag filled with dried leaves.I decided to divide the amount into three groups so I could make three different soaps.

Join me today as I make my first batch of cold process soap with dried sage leaves and an oil infusion!

Collect needed items:

Ingredients
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Water
Dried Sage Leaves
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Soap Mold

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Coconut Oil
113 grams Olive Oil
29 grams Shea Butter
64 grams Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
177 mL Water
7.1 grams dried sage leaves
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
2.26 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
6 fl oz Water
0.25 oz dried sage leaves
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Shea Butter
Q.S. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Q.S. Water
Q.S. Dried Sage Leaves

I began by weighing the oils into a microwave safe container. Then I placed into the microwave and gently heated. Once all the oils had been melted, I added the dry sage leaves to the oil. I let the leaves and oil sit for about 24 hours. When I came back the next day, the oil had solidified so I placed the container back in the microwave to melt the oil again.

While the oils were heating again, I weighed the lye. I slowly added the lye to a container of water I had measured out before melting the oils again. DO NOT add water to your container of lye.

Once the oil had been melted completely, I removed the sage leaves. The leaves were still relatively dry, despite sitting the oil for 24 hours. I suspect this is due to the fact that the oils had cooled and solidified. The weight of my oils changed by 0.08 of an ounce (2.27 grams), so I left my calculated lye amount as I had originally calculated. That being said, I won’t be doing that again! Next time, I will place my dried botanicals in a single oil (preferably liquid at room temperature) and then weigh out the needed amount of oil.

Once my lye solution and oils were within an ideal temperature range*, I slowly poured the lye solution into the oils. I used an immersion blender to mix the oils and lye solution together until I reached trace. After I achieved trace, I poured the soap into the mold and allowed the soap to sit undisturbed for 24 hours.

I came back after 24 hours and cut the soap into bars. Then I placed the cut bars of soap on a piece of cardboard and arranged them to allow for good air flow between bars. I placed the bars on my curing shelf and made a note of their starting weight. As the curing process is the time that allows for any excess water to evaporate, soap cures fairly quickly in our dry climate.

Soap Notes: As I was mixing the soap, it had a slight pinkish hue. That pinkish hue did disappear while the soap was going through the gel phase and the final bar had a nice creamy color.

*Temperature Note: For most soaps, you will want to mix your oils and lye solution when both are somewhere between 110°F to 130°F. In the winter when your soaping area is cooler, you will want to soap at higher temperatures. In the summer when your soaping area is warmer, you will want to soap at cooler temperatures. This particular batch had temperatures around 120°F.

I had so much fun making this soap! Stop by tomorrow and we’ll try another batch with sage leaves!

Andee

Our sage is blooming!
Our sage is blooming!
Dried sage leaves.
Dried sage leaves.
The dried sage leaves sitting in the soap oils.
The dried sage leaves sitting in the soap oils.
Melted oils after removing the sage.
Melted oils after removing the sage.
Adding the lye solution to the oils.
Adding the lye solution to the oils.
Mixing the oils and lye solution together.
Mixing the oils and lye solution together.

Soap after being poured into the mold.
Soap after being poured into the mold.
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Soapmakers: Thoughts on calculating water or using discounts

Clean WaterDear Soapmakers,

Recently I have become aware of some difficulties soap makers are having while trying to figure their water needs. Let me try to help clear the air (water?) here.

1) Water is needed in your soap making process. This is not an ingredient that needs to be weighed to 1/100th of an ounce accuracy. Any excess water will evaporate so only worry about non-variable ingredients when you spend time weighing.

2) Always base your water needs on the amount of fat and never the amount of lye. Recent comments to me indicate that some people are teaching to use an amount of water that is double the amount of the lye needed. Let’s cover two examples:
a batch of soap that is 16 ounces of oils, the lye calculation needs 3.68 ounces, water would then be 7.36 ounces
second batch of soap that is 16 ounces of oils, the lye calculation needs 1.55 ounces, water would then be 3.10 ounces.

For the first batch in this example 7.36 ounces of water is quite fluid yet still workable. It will take longer for the soap to cure because the extra water must evaporate. Trace may be slow to come because of the excess water.

The second batch has too little water, trace will happen very quickly, it will be difficult to color or scent because the soap progresses too fast. Both batches are the same size, 16 ounces of fat. The first batch will likely be 22 to 23 ounces of finished soap, the second batch will likely be 20 to 21 ounces of finished soap.

How to correctly calculate the amount of water needed for each batch:

Calculate the amount of fat you are using. Multiply this amount by 32 to 42%. If you live where: the air is so dry your sheets crunch when you crawl into bed, daily reports of how low the relative humidity is in your region appear on the evening news, without supplemented water your lawn will be brown for 11 months of the year then you know you need closer to the 42%. This is about to 6.75 fluid ounces per lb of fats. If you can’t remember when the last dry day happened, mold is a constant problem, moss grows on every roof top in your city, and everyone uses the term muggy or damp on a daily basis, or if you own and use a rain coat/slicker regularly – you should use closer to 32% which is about to 5 fl oz per lb of fats. You may have needs to use more or less water than these amounts but at least you are now calculating for your needs instead of aiming for moving, unreliable target.

Think I might have missed the mark? If so, then why do we use different amounts of scenting oils when we make peppermint soap vs vanilla soap? Different needs require different amounts. Use what you need, not what is excessive or too little.

Need help with your recipes? Just comment on this blog and I will help walk you through the math.

Cheers!
Tina

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Caffe Latte Cold Process Soap

Caffe Latte Soap
Caffe Latte Soap

Recently, we offered a beginners soap making class, we had a few students that never made soap before and some that had made a few batches but wanted to focus on the cold process soap-making techniques. During this class each participant had the opportunity to make several batches of soap and since we were in the blog kitchen we couldn’t help ourselves and started digging into the drawers and cupboards for new ideas. This beginners class soon covered some more advanced topics such as adding fragrances, additives, colors, essential oils, glitter, and espresso. Every batch we did we tried something new, we soon lost track of time made 20+ batches of soap and had gone through all the drawers and cupboards in the blog kitchen. So much fun!

In this blog I am going to share with you the Caffe Latte soap that we created in this class. This first started with everyone needing a beverage and as we traveled around the room for requests I asked Andee for a iced coffee (she makes the best). Well this got our ideas going and we asked Andee to make us some espresso for making – why not? a Caffe Latte soap! Swapping a portion of the water/lye mixture with espresso was a good start. Then we came up with coffee oil, coffee grounds, Vanilla Cream Fragrance Oil. To do this we used two 1lb batches of soap, one we would be simulating the coffee portion and the other would be the cream portion.

While making the coffee portion we added the espresso into they lye mixture, this made the soap a really dark brown color. My favorite! We also added in some of the coffee oil this gave it a strong coffee scent. This will definitely wake you up, without the caffeine of course. The creamy top for our soap we added in a Vanilla Cream Fragrance Oil and ground up coffee beans for sprinkling on the top.

Here are the ingredients and recipe.

Ingredients
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Vanilla Cream Fragrance Oil
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Water
Coffee Oil
Coffee Grounds
Espresso
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Soap Mold

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Coconut Oil
113 grams Olive Oil
29 grams Shea Butter
64 grams Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
177 mL Water
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
2.26 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
6 fl oz Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Shea Butter
Q.S. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Q.S. Water

Our temperatures for lye and oils are between 125°F and 130°F to handle our currently cool weather. We make our soap with a 6% superfat. All of the batches we make are mixed to light trace and then the fragrance is added. After the fragrance is added we mix until the fragrance is incorporated and then we pour into the mold.

We first poured the espresso added batch to fill the mold to the half way point, then poured the second creamy batch on top. Sprinkled with finely ground coffee beans to give that chocolate sprinkled effect. Wow, this soap smells wonderful! What a great fun idea and it sure wakes up your senses every time you use it.

Enjoy and see you soon in our next soap making class!

Tonya

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Fragrance Testing in Cold Process Soap: Juicy Grape, Gardenia, Snow Drops, Toasted Coconut, and Sandalwood Vanilla

I have more photos for our Fragrance Testing Series! This is a long series of blog posts that shows the testing of our fragrances in Cold Process Soap. We are testing ALL of the fragrances in our catalog at their maximum recommended usage rate for Cold Process Soap and showing you pictures of what the finished soaps look like in a side by side comparison with an unscented control batch. Since these fragrances are all being tested at their maximum recommended usage rate, I wouldn’t recommend using more fragrance. These soaps are strongly scented and will smell much stronger when wet.

Our first fragrance today in Cold Process Soap is Juicy Grape. Our catalog notes that “Juicy Grape is a wonderful fragrance with the intensely scented concord grape at the core. The fragrance is perfect for soaps, shampoos and conditioners. A real fresh and energizing scent.” Juicy Grape is one of my all time favorites, I love this fantastic scent in room sprays and lotions too. I have several friends that request this scent because it reminds them of a sweet candy grape treat.

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make that purple and white swirl you have always been dreaming of without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Juicy Grape fragrance oil on the left and control on the right.
Juicy Grape fragrance oil on the left and control on the right.

Gardenia scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Gardenia scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Our second fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Gardenia. Under the description for Gardenia, our catalog says “Imagine white blooms on a warm summer night wafting fragrance through the air. That is Gardenia! A very rich fragrance” Reminds me of my grandma’s flower garden, she had these blooming every year. Brings back some great childhood memories.

There was a minute amount of discoloration, a light buttery yellow color. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.


Our third fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Snow Drops. According to our catalog, Snow Drops is a “Limited Edition! Snow Drops is a fresh and cool scent. Ozone meets with a slight sweetness, marine notes blend with a faint fresh evergreen. This is a great refreshing scent and reminds me of a crisp winter day in our high mountainous valley.” What? It can’t be, a limited edition? Better get yours now. I love this scent and so did several of you so it was brought back for a limited time. I recommend this scent it is a light and calming scent.

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make any swirl without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Snow Drops scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Snow Drops scented soap on the left and control on the right.

 


Toasted Coconut scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Toasted Coconut scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Our fourth fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Toasted Coconut. According to our catalog, “Toasted Coconut – Need a fragrance that smells like sunshine and sun tans? Toasted coconut is it! Need a fragrance for warm bodies on the beach? Toasted Coconut is it! Toasted Coconut can be used in lotions, soaps and more. Coconut with caramel notes, paradise and vanilla. Yummy!” This scent is getting me in that summer time mood. Temperatures are rising and chaise lounge chairs with a side of lemonade is just what I’m dreaming for about now.

There is a significant amount of discoloration of note a lovely tan in color. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.25%, which is 0.36 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.


Our fifth and last fragrance for today in Cold Process soap is Sandalwood Vanilla.  According to our catalog “Sandalwood Vanilla is “an incredibly masculine scent. Sandalwood and vanilla are the perfect mix. Warm, sexy, inviting and comforting are the words most often uses to describe this scent. Sandalwood, vanilla, oak, moss and crisp linen blend to make this sent the best.” Sandalwood is one of my favorite scents and what is better than sandalwood? Sandalwood combined with the sweet scent of vanilla. The best combination of scent and a fabulous scent for just about anything you want to make!

There is a significant amount of discoloration of note a very nice shade of soft brown hues. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Sandalwood Vanilla fragrance oil on the right and control on the right.
Sandalwood Vanilla fragrance oil on the right and control on the right.

Thank you for joining us today! We will be releasing more pictures as we continue testing soaps. If there is a fragrance you would like to see, let us know and we will put it at the top of our list!


Here are the details about our test batches before we added any fragrances!

Ingredients
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Water
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Soap Mold

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Coconut Oil
113 grams Olive Oil
29 grams Shea Butter
64 grams Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
177 mL Water
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
2.26 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
6 fl oz Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Shea Butter
Q.S. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Q.S. Water

Our temperatures for lye and oils are between 125°F and 130°F to handle our currently cool weather. We make our soap with a 6% superfat. All of the batches we make are mixed to light trace and then the fragrance is added. After the fragrance is added we mix until the fragrance is incorporated and then we pour into the mold.

Tonya

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Fragrance Testing in Cold Process Soap: Blowing Bubbles, Honeysuckle, Bay Rum, Polynesian Red, and Apple Jack

I have more photos for our Fragrance Testing Series! This is a long series of blog posts that shows the testing of our fragrances in Cold Process Soap. We are testing ALL of the fragrances in our catalog at their maximum recommended usage rate for Cold Process Soap and showing you pictures of what the finished soaps look like in a side by side comparison with an unscented control batch. Since these fragrances are all being tested at their maximum recommended usage rate, I wouldn’t recommend using more fragrance. These soaps are strongly scented and will smell much stronger when wet.

Our first fragrance today in Cold Process Soap is Blowing Bubbles. Our catalog notes that Blowing Bubbles is “a fruity berry combination of strawberry, blackberry and wild huckleberries touched with a hint of pineapple and soft rose on a sweet caramel bottom. A great scent with mouthwatering berry notes which explode into the sweet realm of fun!” What a fun and playful name for a scent and this scent is definitely joyous and cheerful, very berry and bright!

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make that pink and white swirl you have always been dreaming of without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 3.0%, which is 0.48 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Blowing Bubbles scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Blowing Bubbles scented soap on the left and control on the right.

Honeysuckle scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Honeysuckle scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Our second fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Honeysuckle. Under the description for Honeysuckle, our catalog says “It is here! We know you have been asking for a good honeysuckle and have waited a long time. Well, the wait was worth it! A heavy floral that lingers for a long time, use alone or in blends. A fabulous anchoring aroma.” Now I know why hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers of the honeysuckle plant. It’s fantastic! An intense fragrance strong floral scent that is a perfect addition to our cold process soap.

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make that floral themed swirl you have always wanted without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.


Our third fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Bay Rum. According to our catalog, Bay Rum “Well it is finally here! Bay Rum is the much requested fragrance for our R&D staff. After many trials and lots of fragrances we just didn’t like we created this one. One of our staff members too a bar of soap home to her husband. His complete comments we can’t print here but his animalistic growl said a thousand works!” A timeless sexy favorite, warm and exotic fragrance. Blends of citrus, spices and bay leaf give this a woody, sweet and spicy twist. A manly man fragrance.

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make any swirl without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Bay Rum scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Bay Rum scented soap on the left and control on the right.

Polynesian Red scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Polynesian Red scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Our fourth fragrance in Cold Process Soap is Polynesian Red. According to our catalog, Polynesian Red is “Juicy pomegranates are the core of this fragrance. Hints of pineapple, red grapefruit, green apple, mango and subtle moss make this scent unforgettable. A staff favorite with lotions, soaps and especially hair care products. I like the Leave In Conditioner the most so my hair can have an aromatic uplift any time of day!” A fruity tropical and always a requested scent. Love, love, love this fragrance in everything I make.

There was not any discoloration of note and this means you can make pink and orange swirl without worrying about the fragrance causing discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2.5%, which is 0.4 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.


Our fifth and last fragrance for today in Cold Process soap is Apple Jack. According to our catalog Apple Jack states that it’s “Another new arrival for the holiday. A festive combination of McIntosh red apples, juicy oranges and Madagascar vanilla perfectly complimented with our own special blend of spices. This one has ’tis the season’ written all over it.” Believe it or not, but I have not had the opportunity to try this scent before and I’m absolutely loving it. A great holiday treat, I am really enjoying the combination of apples and spice. I think I will make a room spray and see if the kids will come out of their rooms to see if I’m cooking. Haha!

There was a minute amount of discoloration, a light buttery yellow color. Still very minimal discoloration. We used the maximum suggested usage rate of 2%, which is 0.36 ounces of fragrance in our 1 pound test batch.

Apple Jack scented soap on the left and control on the right.
Apple Jack scented soap on the left and control on the right.

Thank you for joining us today! We will be releasing more pictures as we continue testing soaps. If there is a fragrance you would like to see, let us know and we will put it at the top of our list!


Here are the details about our test batches before we added any fragrances!

Ingredients
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Shea Butter
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Water
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Immersion Blender
Soap Mold

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
142 grams Coconut Oil
113 grams Olive Oil
29 grams Shea Butter
64 grams Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
177 mL Water
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Olive Oil
1 oz Shea Butter
2.26 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
6 fl oz Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
31.25% Coconut Oil
25% Olive Oil
6.25% Shea Butter
Q.S. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Q.S. Water

Our temperatures for lye and oils are between 125°F and 130°F to handle our currently cool weather. We make our soap with a 6% superfat. All of the batches we make are mixed to light trace and then the fragrance is added. After the fragrance is added we mix until the fragrance is incorporated and then we pour into the mold.

Tonya

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Rating: 0.0/5 (0 votes cast)