I love grease monkey soaps. I really like to get into my gardening or other messy jobs. I then have some serious clean up. A grease monkey soap does the job perfectly. I have an overwhelming stash of melt and pour soap and I wondered if I could make a melt and pour grease monkey soap. So I headed to the kitchen for some testing.
Here is the equipment you will need for this recipe.
Here are the ingredients you will need for this recipe.
Here is the recipe in ounces.
Gently melt the soap until liquid. Once liquid add the Ground Vanilla Bean Specks. Allow the soap to cool until more viscous. Add the pumice and stir well. Pour the viscous soap into mold and allow to cool. Remove from mold and use.
In my first test, I only added .22 oz of Pumice. My soap was also very hot. My pumice sank to the bottom of my mold (the top of my soap), then cooled. I wanted a soap that had pumice through out the bar and as I looked at my bar, I decided I wanted more pumice. I multiplied my pumice by three and I allowed my soap to cool more before adding my pumice and pouring. Down at the bottom you can see the comparison of these soaps. The one on the right is the desired soap. I grabbed a bar and gave my hands a good scrub down to test. It worked great! So simple to make and exactly what the mechanic ordered.
|Here at MMS, most of us really enjoy chocolate and for good reason! Chocolate is one of the most popular flavors across the world. I can’t forget the wonderful benefits of chocolate either! The two main alkaloids in chocolate, theobromine(thē’ō-brō’mēn’) and phenylethylamine(fěn’əl-ěth’ə-lə-mēn’), have positive effects on the body. They have been linked to lowering blood pressure and raising serotonin levels in the brain (these are the chemicals that help make you happy). Chocolate even has a good number antioxidants to help fight free radicals. Of course, dark chocolate is more beneficial than milk chocolate. I could obviously talk about chocolate for pages, but I won’t. Instead, I’m going to talk about making a Melt & Pour Soap that looks like fudge and naturally smells like it too!
Collect needed supplies:
Weigh Melt & Pour Soap Base into a container for melting soap. I placed my soap in a 2 gallon soap bucket and melted the soap in the microwave. It took about 10 minutes to melt the soap. Once the soap was melted, I used the immersion blender to mix the fragrance oil into the soap. Then I added the Brown Oxide Color and blended until I couldn’t see any more lumps of color. I added the Silver Mica to help add a light catching texture to the brown color.
Don’t forget to submit your blog or video posts to win the MMS Perfumer’s Kit. Remember, this kit is worth $280! Submissions are due by December 1st for posts during October and November.
|Hi everyone! Kathy here again feeling like I need to redeem myself (see Blowing Bubbles!)! I decided to try embedding FOAMIES in clear M&P. Hope you enjoy it!
While your soap is melting, place packing paper down on your counter. Set out 3 – 9 oz SOLO cups and 3 – .15 cc scoops. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Fractionated Coconut Oil to each cup. Add one .15 cc scoop of Neon Green Pigment colorant to one of your SOLO cups. Add two .15 cc scoops of Neon Blue Pigment colorant to another cup. And two .15 cc scoops of Violet Pearl Mica colorant to your last cup. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir each one until there are no more lumps that you can see. Leave the .15 cc scoop in each cup.
While waiting for the soap to melt, figure out the layout for each cavity. Also, stir those colorants again to make sure there are no lumps.
Once the soap is completely melted, add 1 drop of Blue liquid dye (oil or water based dye – doesn’t matter) and stir your soap. I saw this on another blog and thought I would try it! The clear M&P soap base has a yellowish tint to it, but if you add that one drop of blue dye, it makes it look clearer. See pics of before and after. I was impressed!!
Now add 2 teaspoons (9.8 mil) of Pixie Dust Fragrance Oil to soap and stir. Place your FOAMIES in each cavity (face down) and spray the FOAMIES/each cavity with alcohol. Carefully pour about 1/8″ of clear soap into each cavity, just enough to cover the FOAMIES. Spray with alcohol to burst any bubbles. Use your toothpick or bamboo skewer to gently reposition your FOAMIES – they moved when I poured my soap, arrrhg! Wait 10 minutes. Keep soap base in pot of hot water to keep it melted/warm. Pour clear soap into the SOLO cup with the Violet Pearl Mica, stir quickly but thoroughly. Spray one cavity with alcohol. Pour the colored soap into the Fairy/Swirl FOAMIES cavity to top of cavity. Spritz with alcohol again to burst any bubbles. Repeat this for each colorant/cavity – one at a time, otherwise the soap will solidify in your SOLO cup. Don’t forget to spray alcohol before pouring your second layer or they will fall apart. I had colored soap leftover in my SOLO cups so I poured it into an extra mold sitting to the side. Spray with alcohol before pouring another layer of soap! Remember ~ alcohol is your friend! Let them sit for 24 hours – do not move it! Now you’re ready to unmold!
After un-molding and trimming your bars (if necessary), place each one in a 4 x 6 shrink bag. I broke out my Monster Machine (which is very heavy) to get a nicer finish with the bags. I don’t use it very much because I usually only do CP/HP and use Dan’s Bands – so simple! I forgot how much fun M&P could be – instant gratification! Turn the heat gun on Low. Shrink the sides first, then the top and back last. Do this quickly or you run the risk of melting your soap.
Notes: I had no idea what FOAMIES were! Scrap booking maybe? When I opened the package, I noticed that they had sticky stuff (glue) on the back of each FOAMIES…that was a pain to try to get them into the cavities, face down, without them sticking to my fingers or toothpick/bamboo skewer. So I had this brilliant idea of how to get the glue off of them – yea – wait for it ;o) !! I took a piece of scotch tape and laid it over the back and pulled the tape off quickly. Not a good idea!! On the first one I tried, the butterfly wing tore off a bit. So for the next one I placed the tape on and gently removed it – it kind of worked! There was still some glue on the back, but all I needed was a small area without glue to touch with the bamboo skewer without the FOAMIES coming out with the skewer – LOL! Anyone know how to remove glue without destroying the FOAMIES? Maybe Goo Gone and a Q-tip?
Make sure your counter is level, or your bars will be crooked.
This one was fun and not as much work as my Blowing Bubbles – which look more like Brachs Jelly Nougats candy ;o) so says my family! MMS sent me a 1 oz sample of Starfruit Fragrance Oil ~ so now my brain is going crazy trying to figure out how to make M&P stars :o) !! Thanks Andee!
You can see the Dinosaur really well through the crystals in this mold.
You can barely see the ring through the crystals in this mold but enough to make it look like a real “treasure”!
I love making embedded soap. My grandchildren love it! It gives them something to look forward to and they wash their hands a lot more trying to get the toys out!
Thank you so much for making this skill easy to learn and affordable to do. The staff at MMS is so helpful and patient. Whether I call with questions about cold process soap or making hand cream they are always willing to clear up the fog of confusion I’ve created in my head. Without them I would never have attempted this craft. It has turned into one of the most useful, rewarding things I do. Thank you!
|Hi everyone! My name is Kathy and I love a challenge! I’m doing a soap in soap embed as my challenge. Hope you enjoy it! I really thought this was going to be easy ~ but it turned into a lot of work!! This little project took 4 days to complete!!
Ingredients/Equipment needed ~ for EMBED soap:
While your soap is melting, place packing paper down on your counter. Set out 8 – 9 oz SOLO cups and 8 – .15 cc scoops. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Fractionated Coconut Oil to each cup. Add one .15 cc scoop of each Neon Pigment colorant to each cup. I used 1/4 teaspoon of the Mica in its cup. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir each one until there are no more lumps that you can see. (Note: The Blue & Purple Neon Pigments could have used two .15 cc scoops) Leave the .15 cc scoop in each cup.
While you’re waiting for the soap to melt, stir each colorant/cup again – just to make sure it has dissolved completely – we don’t want any lumps of colorant to show up in our embeds! According to Andee, this is called “Mulling Pigments” – that’s a new word for me!
Once the soap is melted, turn the stove down to Low, but keep the Pyrex in the hot water between pours to keep it melted. Pour some melted M&P into your first SOLO cup/colorant about half full (I’m going to guess around 4 to 4.5 oz for each cup). Put the Pyrex back into the hot water. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir the colorant/soap base quickly (but thoroughly) and pour into your embed molds. Spray with Alcohol to remove any bubbles. Repeat this until all 8 colors/SOLO cups are mixed and poured. Do NOT pour your M&P soap base into every cup upfront – it will solidify quickly! I could only do 4 colorants/cups a day because I did not have enough EMBED molds to complete this part! Save the SOLO cups after you’ve poured your colored M&P soap!
I waited 24 hours before unmolding my tiny cubes, bottle cubes and circles. Then I had to remelt my M&P to finish the last 4 colors…next time (next time?) I’ll buy more ice cube and bottle cube trays so that I can finish this in one day! After unmolding, I stored each colored M&P embeds in their respective (used) SOLO cup.
Ingredients/Equipment needed ~ for OVERPOUR soap:
Once melted, add the Mica/FO to the soap base. Stir well. This really didn’t whiten my Goatsmilk M&P base that much. Should have used White M&P, then I wouldn’t have to use any whitener. Turn the stove down to Low.
Important: Figure out your layout in the mold before you start!
Are you ready??!! You can not afford ANY interruptions for this part! OK, here we go!!
Now you’re ready to unmold and cut!
After cutting your bars, place each bar in a 6 X 6 shrink bag. I had to cut the bags on the sides and top. The 4 x 6 bags were just too small for my bars. After cutting the bag, I wrapped it against the bar and taped it shut – like wrapping a present. Or use an Impulse Cutter/Sealer, if you have one. Turn the heat gun on Low. Shrink the sides first, then the top and back last. Do this quickly or you run the risk of melting your soap. I don’t worry about this with CP, but M&P is a whole different beast!! ;o)
If you use the double boiler method, I found that melting M&P in a stainless steel pot melts a lot quicker than using a Pyrex cup.
I did not use the freezer for any part of this. The freezer method tends to leave dew on the embeds, plus it’s too cold to use as embeds in a warm/hot over-pour.
Remember ~ alcohol is your friend! If you don’t use alcohol, your layers will come apart. The alcohol dissipates – so don’t worry about using too much! You cannot smell any alcohol whatsoever – just that wonderful fragrance oil!
Do not scent your Embeds ~ I have alot left over which I can use on another batch. It’s best to over-scent your overpour soap.
|Once again, I have a challenge for all blog readers. Do you remember the Pirate Treasures Soaps and the Creepy Crawly Critter Soaps? My challenge is for you to send me pictures of soaps that you have embedded objects. The objects can be anything you can imagine! Soap, toys, coins, or other surprises.
Submissions will be due by October 18th. Each guest writer will receive a $25 gift certificate for their participation.
I’m a patriotic girl, and I’m proud of the flag that flies for our country. For me, that flag represents the freedom I have and so much more. Every time Independence Day rolls around, I want to make a layered soap with red, white and blue stripes. The only problem I have is that we don’t have a color that creates a true red without bleeding or fading! Let me show you a soap I made with Melt & Pour Soap that contains Purple Raspberry Dye. I’ll set one bar of this soap in the direct sunlight for the next couple of weeks, another bar will sit in indirect sunlight and the last bar will sit in an office with fluorescent lights. Every Friday, I will show you new pictures of the soaps as they age.
When I was just beginning to make melt and pour soaps, I struggled with getting my temperature just right so I wouldn’t melt my inserts. Along the way, I also discovered that the amount of moisture my inserts had also made a difference of how quickly my inserts would melt. However, you don’t always have weeks to wait for them to dry out. Here is a process I discovered that just takes a 12 hour period or one night!
Make your inserts. Place them in a bowl or place and put them in the refrigerator. Wait over night. Pull them out the next day. The refrigerator will have pulled water out of your soap inserts. This will make them less likely to melt. It will also make things easier for you when you are arranging them in the mold. They will be less likely to stick to each other. Depending on how much soap is in each individual insert will depending how much water is lost.
During my experiments, I discovered I could lose 8% to 29% in weight from water. The smaller and thinner my inserts were, the more water I was able to lose. In my experiments, the inserts that lost the most amount of water were easier to work with and they were less likely to melt if I had soap that was a little too hot. I also discovered the larger inserts lost more water the longer I left them in the refrigerator. You can do some testing of your own to determine how long you should leave your inserts in the refrigerator based on your climate, type of soap, and style of refrigerator.
In order to determine how much water is lost during a period of time, weigh your cutouts and record that amount. Place your bowl on the scale and record how much it weighs. Place your cutouts in your bowl and put it in the refrigerator and wait at least 12 hours. Weigh the entire bowl with your cutouts. Record and subtract how much your bowl weighs from your initial total weight. Now divide your finished cutout weight by your original cut out weight. That will give you a percentage of how much weight in water was lost during the period of time you left it in your refrigerator. Now you can plan ahead so you know your cutouts are ready for your melt and pour soaps.