Archive for the ‘Melt & Pour Soap’ Category

Fudgy Chocolate Melt & Pour Soap

Monday, November 9th, 2009
Here at MMS, most of us really enjoy chocolate and for good reason! Chocolate is one of the most popular flavors across the world. I can’t forget the wonderful benefits of chocolate either! The two main alkaloids in chocolate, theobromine(thē’ō-brō’mēn’) and phenylethylamine(fěn’əl-ěth’ə-lə-mēn’), have positive effects on the body. They have been linked to lowering blood pressure and raising serotonin levels in the brain (these are the chemicals that help make you happy). Chocolate even has a good number antioxidants to help fight free radicals. Of course, dark chocolate is more beneficial than milk chocolate. I could obviously talk about chocolate for pages, but I won’t. Instead, I’m going to talk about making a Melt & Pour Soap that looks like fudge and naturally smells like it too!

Collect needed supplies:
White or Transparent Melt and Pour Soap
Chocolate Mousse Fragrance Oil
Brown Oxide Color
Silver Mica
Long Loaf Soap Mold
Container for melting soap
Transfer Pipette
Scale
Mixing Spoon
Immersion blender
Measuring Spoon
Cutting Knife

Recipe:
5 pounds Melt & Pour Soap
1.2 ounces Chocolate Mousse Fragrance Oil (34 grams)
1 Tablespoon Brown Oxide Color
1 teaspoon Silver Mica

Weigh Melt & Pour Soap Base into a container for melting soap. I placed my soap in a 2 gallon soap bucket and melted the soap in the microwave. It took about 10 minutes to melt the soap. Once the soap was melted, I used the immersion blender to mix the fragrance oil into the soap. Then I added the Brown Oxide Color and blended until I couldn’t see any more lumps of color. I added the Silver Mica to help add a light catching texture to the brown color.

Notes:
I used a batch of Melt & Pour Soap I had mis-colored, instead of using a plain white or transparent Melt & Pour Soap. It didn’t affect the color since I was using a pigment and pigments cover colors. You can duplicate my mistake by using part White Melt & Pour Soap and part Transparent Melt & Pour Soap.

Don’t forget to submit your blog or video posts to win the MMS Perfumer’s Kit. Remember, this kit is worth $280! Submissions are due by December 1st for posts during October and November.

Andee

My completely melted soap.

My completely melted soap.

Adding Chocolate Mousse Fragrance Oil.

Adding Chocolate Mousse Fragrance Oil.

Starting to blend the Brown Oxide into the soap.

Starting to blend the Brown Oxide into the soap.

Brown Oxide completely mixed into the soap.

Brown Oxide completely mixed into the soap.

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Another Embedding Tutorial from jaspersgarden

Friday, October 30th, 2009
Hi everyone! Kathy here again feeling like I need to redeem myself (see Blowing Bubbles!)! I decided to try embedding FOAMIES in clear M&P. Hope you enjoy it!

Ingredients/Equipment needed:
20 oz Clear Melt & Pour Soap
2 tsp Pixie Dust Fragrance Oil (from MMS)
1 Sheet Foam Stickers-Fairy Twinkle (#106-908M, from Michael’s craft store)
3 – 9 oz clear, short SOLO cups (PETE)
3 – .15 cc Scoops
1/2 Teaspoon
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Blue Liquid Dye (mine is water-based)
2 Neon Pigments – Blue & Green (Oil soluble & non-bleeding)
1 Mica – Violet Pearl
Packing paper to protect your counter – Neon’s will stain!
3 Qt Stainless Steel Pot (filled 1/2 way with distilled water)
1 Qt Stainless Steel Pot (to melt soap in)
Double Boiler Maker
Popsicle stick (to stir soap with)
Cutting board
Paring knife
Pot holder for counter
Scale
Milky Way Mold – Basic Rectangle
Extra mold nearby in case you have leftover soap
Toothpick or Bamboo skewer (to help place/move FOAMIES)
XACTO knife (to trim soap if you over-poured like I did!)
Alcohol in a spray bottle
LOTS of ventilation!!

Instructions:
Cut up clear M&P soap base and place into the 1 Qt Stainless Steel pot. Place the 1 Qt pot into the 3 Qt pot of water – use a double boiler maker so the water doesn’t get into your soap. Turn the stove on to Medium heat. I prefer to melt M&P with the double boiler method rather than using a microwave. Use the method you’re most comfortable with. As the soap begins to melt, stir it with the Popsicle stick once in awhile until completely melted.

While your soap is melting, place packing paper down on your counter. Set out 3 – 9 oz SOLO cups and 3 – .15 cc scoops. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Fractionated Coconut Oil to each cup. Add one .15 cc scoop of Neon Green Pigment colorant to one of your SOLO cups. Add two .15 cc scoops of Neon Blue Pigment colorant to another cup. And two .15 cc scoops of Violet Pearl Mica colorant to your last cup. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir each one until there are no more lumps that you can see. Leave the .15 cc scoop in each cup.

While waiting for the soap to melt, figure out the layout for each cavity. Also, stir those colorants again to make sure there are no lumps.

Once the soap is completely melted, add 1 drop of Blue liquid dye (oil or water based dye – doesn’t matter) and stir your soap. I saw this on another blog and thought I would try it! The clear M&P soap base has a yellowish tint to it, but if you add that one drop of blue dye, it makes it look clearer. See pics of before and after. I was impressed!!

Now add 2 teaspoons (9.8 mil) of Pixie Dust Fragrance Oil to soap and stir. Place your FOAMIES in each cavity (face down) and spray the FOAMIES/each cavity with alcohol. Carefully pour about 1/8″ of clear soap into each cavity, just enough to cover the FOAMIES. Spray with alcohol to burst any bubbles. Use your toothpick or bamboo skewer to gently reposition your FOAMIES – they moved when I poured my soap, arrrhg! Wait 10 minutes. Keep soap base in pot of hot water to keep it melted/warm. Pour clear soap into the SOLO cup with the Violet Pearl Mica, stir quickly but thoroughly. Spray one cavity with alcohol. Pour the colored soap into the Fairy/Swirl FOAMIES cavity to top of cavity. Spritz with alcohol again to burst any bubbles. Repeat this for each colorant/cavity – one at a time, otherwise the soap will solidify in your SOLO cup. Don’t forget to spray alcohol before pouring your second layer or they will fall apart. I had colored soap leftover in my SOLO cups so I poured it into an extra mold sitting to the side. Spray with alcohol before pouring another layer of soap! Remember ~ alcohol is your friend! Let them sit for 24 hours – do not move it! Now you’re ready to unmold!

Supplies needed:
5 – 4 x 6 Shrink wrap bags
Heat resistant cutting board
Heat Gun
Impulse Cutter/Sealer (or)
Shrink wrap System w/Heat Gun (or)
Scissors and tape

After un-molding and trimming your bars (if necessary), place each one in a 4 x 6 shrink bag. I broke out my Monster Machine (which is very heavy) to get a nicer finish with the bags. I don’t use it very much because I usually only do CP/HP and use Dan’s Bands – so simple! I forgot how much fun M&P could be – instant gratification! Turn the heat gun on Low. Shrink the sides first, then the top and back last. Do this quickly or you run the risk of melting your soap.

Enjoy!

Notes: I had no idea what FOAMIES were! Scrap booking maybe? When I opened the package, I noticed that they had sticky stuff (glue) on the back of each FOAMIES…that was a pain to try to get them into the cavities, face down, without them sticking to my fingers or toothpick/bamboo skewer. So I had this brilliant idea of how to get the glue off of them – yea – wait for it ;o) !! I took a piece of scotch tape and laid it over the back and pulled the tape off quickly. Not a good idea!! On the first one I tried, the butterfly wing tore off a bit. So for the next one I placed the tape on and gently removed it – it kind of worked! There was still some glue on the back, but all I needed was a small area without glue to touch with the bamboo skewer without the FOAMIES coming out with the skewer – LOL! Anyone know how to remove glue without destroying the FOAMIES? Maybe Goo Gone and a Q-tip?

Make sure your counter is level, or your bars will be crooked.

This one was fun and not as much work as my Blowing Bubbles – which look more like Brachs Jelly Nougats candy ;o) so says my family! MMS sent me a 1 oz sample of Starfruit Fragrance Oil ~ so now my brain is going crazy trying to figure out how to make M&P stars :o) !! Thanks Andee!

Kathy

Equipment/Ingredients needed.

Equipment/Ingredients needed.

Layout for each cavity.

Layout for each cavity.

3 colorants with FCO in SOLO cups - Top view.

3 colorants with FCO in SOLO cups - Top view.

3 colorants with FCO in SOLO cups - Side view.

3 colorants with FCO in SOLO cups - Side view.

My double boiler maker with clear M&P chunks melting.

My double boiler maker with clear M&P chunks melting.

BEFORE Blue Dye ~ melted clear M&P soap shows a yellowish tint.

BEFORE Blue Dye ~ melted clear M&P soap shows a yellowish tint.

AFTER Blue Dye ~ melted clear M&P soap ~ what do you think?  Better?

AFTER Blue Dye ~ melted clear M&P soap ~ what do you think? Better?

1st layer of clear M&P soap with my FOAMIES - Top View.

1st layer of clear M&P soap with my FOAMIES - Top View.

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Making Citrus Slices Using Loofah in Melt & Pour Soap by Nina

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009
Supplies:

Transparent Melt and Pour Soap
Loofah
Orange Pigment Powder
Green Pigment Powder
Yellow Pigment Powder
Citrus Blend Fragrance
Scale
Pipette
Rubbing Alcohol in Spray Bottle
Mold
Microwave safe Dish

Instructions:

1. Cut loofah into 3 slices; small enough to fit into mold

2. Weigh and then melt soap base in microwave or double boiler (I used 7 oz)

3. Add Fragrance oil to melted soap.

4. Divide soap and pour into 3 separate cups. Add pigments to each cup of soap.

5. Pour a thin layer of soap from each cup evenly between the three cavities. Spritz on top of soap with rubbing alcohol to disperse air bubbles. Allow to cool.

6. When a film appears on each layer of soap (blow top of soap to check) spritz loofah slices with rubbing alcohol and then place onto the thin layer of soap. Pour the remaining melted soap over the loofah slice.

7. When soap has completely cooled and hardened, pop out of mold and your done!

Hope you enjoyed!

Nina

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Using Embeds in Soap by jrdgarrett

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
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I gathered ingredients and tools to have everything handy.

9O20-03

I used an electric soap melter that I picked up at a local thrift store. It takes a little longer to melt than the microwave but makes pouring a breeze.

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Then I colored a small amount of the soap with violet mica.

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Filled mold about 3/4 of the way full.

9O20-02

I scooped Melt and Pour Transparent Soap. I use a sturdy ice cream scoop. It seems to cut through it a little easier.

9O20-04

I started with filling about 1/2 of this mold with transparent Melt and Pour Soap.

9O20-06

Stirred until all clumps of mica are distributed.

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I let the soap set a few minutes to harden slightly. I sprayed the item to embed with alcohol.

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I placed the item into the soap being sure the entire item would be completely covered by the soap.

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Items waiting for next layer.

9O20-13

I stirred until all clumps are dissolved.

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Here I added copper mica to melted soap. (My Grandson helped me with this soap.)

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Added Oak Leaves and Acorns fragrance.

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I placed item to embed into soap being sure it was upside down!

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I covered the item with the remaining soap being sure to fill all the way to the top of the mold.

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I let the soap sit a couple of hours to harden. Because this mold was not flexible I had to put it in the freezer for a few minutes but then the soap popped right out.

You can see where we didn’t have the mica completely dissipated so it left a few spots but we think it adds to the charm of the soap. The spider turned out great. He’s completely covered with soap but you can still see him.

9O20-10

The soap was still a little soft and the ring wouldn’t stay where I wanted it so I used a straw to help keep it afloat.

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I added black mica to a small amount of soap.

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I then added black soap to the top of the mold filling it completely.

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I stirred until I thought no clumps remained.

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I poured a small amount into my mold and let it sit a few minutes to harden slightly so the item would not sink.

9O20-20

Creepy!

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Spraying lightly with alcohol to reduce bubbles.

9O20-24

I added a layer of copper mica colored soap to this mold. I let it sit for a few hours and then unmolded it.

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You can see the Dinosaur really well through the crystals in this mold.

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Oooohh, Aaahh!

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You can barely see the ring through the crystals in this mold but enough to make it look like a real “treasure”!

I love making embedded soap. My grandchildren love it! It gives them something to look forward to and they wash their hands a lot more trying to get the toys out!

Thank you so much for making this skill easy to learn and affordable to do. The staff at MMS is so helpful and patient. Whether I call with questions about cold process soap or making hand cream they are always willing to clear up the fog of confusion I’ve created in my head. Without them I would never have attempted this craft. It has turned into one of the most useful, rewarding things I do. Thank you!

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Using Soap Embeds in Soap by jaspersgarden

Monday, October 19th, 2009
Hi everyone! My name is Kathy and I love a challenge! I’m doing a soap in soap embed as my challenge. Hope you enjoy it! I really thought this was going to be easy ~ but it turned into a lot of work!! This little project took 4 days to complete!!

Ingredients/Equipment needed ~ for EMBED soap:
37 oz Clear M&P soap base
8 – 9 oz clear, short SOLO cups (PETE)
8 – .15 cc Scoops
Fractionated Coconut Oil
7 Neon Pigments – Blue, Purple, Pink, Green, Yellow, Orange & Red (Oil soluble & non-bleeding)
1 Mica – Rose Pearl (optional)
Packing paper to protect your counter – Neon’s will stain!
Measuring Spoons
4 cup Pyrex
1 Stainless Steel pot lid that fits over your Pyrex, it will be loose
1 Fat Popsicle stick (to stir soap base in Pyrex)
5 Qt Stainless Steel Pot filled 1/2 way with distilled water
Cutting board
Paring knife
Pot holder for counter
Scale
Embed molds – I used:
Tiny Cubes = tiny ice cube trays (easy to unmold)
Bottle Cubes = bottom half of water bottle ice cube trays (easy to unmold)
Circles = Wilton Candy Melting Plate (this was the hardest to unmold – go figure!)
Alcohol in a spray bottle
XACTO knife to trim embeds – if necessary

Instructions:
Cut up clear M&P soap base and place into a Pyrex cup. Place Pyrex into the 5 qt pot of water – don’t overfill or the water might get into your soap. Turn the stove on to Medium heat. I prefer to melt M&P with the double boiler method rather than using a microwave. Use the method you’re most comfortable with. As the soap begins to melt, stir it with the Popsicle stick once in awhile until completely melted.

While your soap is melting, place packing paper down on your counter. Set out 8 – 9 oz SOLO cups and 8 – .15 cc scoops. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Fractionated Coconut Oil to each cup. Add one .15 cc scoop of each Neon Pigment colorant to each cup. I used 1/4 teaspoon of the Mica in its cup. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir each one until there are no more lumps that you can see. (Note: The Blue & Purple Neon Pigments could have used two .15 cc scoops) Leave the .15 cc scoop in each cup.

While you’re waiting for the soap to melt, stir each colorant/cup again – just to make sure it has dissolved completely – we don’t want any lumps of colorant to show up in our embeds! According to Andee, this is called “Mulling Pigments” – that’s a new word for me!

Once the soap is melted, turn the stove down to Low, but keep the Pyrex in the hot water between pours to keep it melted. Pour some melted M&P into your first SOLO cup/colorant about half full (I’m going to guess around 4 to 4.5 oz for each cup). Put the Pyrex back into the hot water. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir the colorant/soap base quickly (but thoroughly) and pour into your embed molds. Spray with Alcohol to remove any bubbles. Repeat this until all 8 colors/SOLO cups are mixed and poured. Do NOT pour your M&P soap base into every cup upfront – it will solidify quickly! I could only do 4 colorants/cups a day because I did not have enough EMBED molds to complete this part! Save the SOLO cups after you’ve poured your colored M&P soap!

I waited 24 hours before unmolding my tiny cubes, bottle cubes and circles. Then I had to remelt my M&P to finish the last 4 colors…next time (next time?) I’ll buy more ice cube and bottle cube trays so that I can finish this in one day! After unmolding, I stored each colored M&P embeds in their respective (used) SOLO cup.

Ingredients/Equipment needed ~ for OVERPOUR soap:
52 oz Goatsmilk M&P soap base (should be white M&P but I didn’t have any)
1 Fat Popsicle stick (to stir soap base)
5 Qt Stainless Steel Pot filled 1/2 way with distilled water
3 Qt Stainless Steel Pot
Cutting board
Paring knife
Pot holder for counter
Scale
Milky Way Loaf Mold (12 x 3.5w x 3t)
1 oz Blowing Bubbles Fragrance Oil
1/2 teaspoon FDA Approved Brilliant White Mica
12 Embed Circles
120 Embed Tiny Cubes (15 of each color)
9 Embed Bottle Cubes
40 Embed Tiny Cubes (5 of each color)
Alcohol in a spray bottle
LOTS of ventilation!!

Instructions:
Cut up Goatsmilk M&P soap and place in the 3 Qt stainless steel pot. Place this in the 5 Qt pot of water – don’t overfill or the water might get into your soap. Turn the stove on to Medium heat. Stir M&P soap with the Popsicle stick. While this is melting, add 1/2 tsp of the Brilliant White Mica into a shotglass. Add the Fragrance Oil to the shotglass and stir until it is mixed thoroughly.

Once melted, add the Mica/FO to the soap base. Stir well. This really didn’t whiten my Goatsmilk M&P base that much. Should have used White M&P, then I wouldn’t have to use any whitener. Turn the stove down to Low.

Important: Figure out your layout in the mold before you start!

Are you ready??!! You can not afford ANY interruptions for this part! OK, here we go!!
1) Pour small amount of Goatsmilk M&P soap into Loaf Mold – about 1/2″ thick.
2) Spray with alcohol.
3) Spray each circle with alcohol liberally and place on top of Goatsmilk M&P soap, flat side facing you — do this quickly before the M&P has a chance to set up. Also, push each circle down into the Goatsmilk M&P soap.
4) Once you have all 12 circles in, spray with alcohol again.
5) Wait 15 minutes.
6) Make sure you keep your Goatsmilk M&P soap in the water between pours to keep it warm/melted.
7) Pour large amount of Goatsmilk M&P soap.
8) Spray with alcohol.
9) Grab a handful of tiny cubes and spray liberally with alcohol and dump into Goatsmilk M&P soap.
10) Spray and dump – spray and dump — try to remember where your last dump was!
11) Keep doing this until all tiny cubes are gone (I used 120 tiny cubes).
12) Spray top with alcohol again.
13) Wait 15 – 20 minutes.
14) Spray a bottle cube with alcohol liberally and place on top of loaf, flat side down.
15) Keep doing this until all bottle cubes are gone (I used 9 bottle cubes).
16) Spray the loaf with alcohol again.
17) Pour the rest of the Goatsmilk M&P soap into loaf.
18) Spray with alcohol.
19) Grab a handful of tiny cubes and spray liberally with alcohol and dump into Goatsmilk M&P soap.
20) Spray and dump – spray and dump — try to remember where your last dump was!
21) Keep doing this until all tiny cubes are gone (I used 40 tiny cubes – could have used more than this).
22) Spray top with alcohol again.
23) Ta Da!! You’re done! Now let it sit for 48 hours – do not move it!

Now you’re ready to unmold and cut!

Supplies needed:
Wooden Loaf Cutter (or whatever you have – a miter box might work!)
Crinkle Cutter
2 – 4 x 6 Shrink wrap bags (for ends of loaf)
10 – 6 x 6 Shrink wrap bags
Heat resistant cutting board
Heat Gun
Impulse Cutter/Sealer

After cutting your bars, place each bar in a 6 X 6 shrink bag. I had to cut the bags on the sides and top. The 4 x 6 bags were just too small for my bars. After cutting the bag, I wrapped it against the bar and taped it shut – like wrapping a present. Or use an Impulse Cutter/Sealer, if you have one. Turn the heat gun on Low. Shrink the sides first, then the top and back last. Do this quickly or you run the risk of melting your soap. I don’t worry about this with CP, but M&P is a whole different beast!! ;o)

Enjoy!

Notes:
If you don’t have the tiny ice cube trays, pour your colored, M&P soap into drawer dividers about 1/2″ thick. Let it cool then cut into strips, then cubes ~ wish I had thought of that on Day 1 ;o)

If you use the double boiler method, I found that melting M&P in a stainless steel pot melts a lot quicker than using a Pyrex cup.

I did not use the freezer for any part of this. The freezer method tends to leave dew on the embeds, plus it’s too cold to use as embeds in a warm/hot over-pour.

Remember ~ alcohol is your friend! If you don’t use alcohol, your layers will come apart. The alcohol dissipates – so don’t worry about using too much! You cannot smell any alcohol whatsoever – just that wonderful fragrance oil!

Do not scent your Embeds ~ I have alot left over which I can use on another batch. It’s best to over-scent your overpour soap.

Embed Molds - Tiny Cubes, Bottle Cubes & Circles.

Embed Molds - Tiny Cubes, Bottle Cubes & Circles.

Tiny Cubes in SOLO cups, Bottle Cubes, Circles, XACTO knife, Alcohol in spray bottle, Fragrance Oil for overpour soap.

Tiny Cubes in SOLO cups, Bottle Cubes, Circles, XACTO knife, Alcohol in spray bottle, Fragrance Oil for overpour soap.

Pyrex cup inside 5 Qt Stainless Steel pot - melting clear M&P soap.

Pyrex cup inside 5 Qt Stainless Steel pot - melting clear M&P soap.

Layout of embeds - do this before you start!  (sorry about the lighting, this is another room in my shop)

Layout of embeds - do this before you start! (sorry about the lighting, this is another room in my shop)

Goatsmilk M&P soap, Blowing Bubbles FO mixed with Brilliant White Mica in shotglass.

Goatsmilk M&P soap, Blowing Bubbles FO mixed with Brilliant White Mica in shotglass.

Goatsmilk M&P soap melting in 3 Qt Stainless Steel pot inside 5 Qt Stainless Steel pot filled half way with distilled water.

Goatsmilk M&P soap melting in 3 Qt Stainless Steel pot inside 5 Qt Stainless Steel pot filled half way with distilled water.

1st layer in Mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with Circles Embeds (top view).

1st layer in Mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with Circles Embeds (top view).

1st layer in Mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with Circles Embeds (side view).

1st layer in Mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with Circles Embeds (side view).

2nd layer in Mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with 120 Tiny Cubes Embeds.

2nd layer in Mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with 120 Tiny Cubes Embeds.

3rd layer in Mold ~ Bottle Cubes, flat side down.

3rd layer in Mold ~ Bottle Cubes, flat side down.

4th layer in mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with 40 Tiny Cubes Embeds (could've/should've used more than that).

4th layer in mold ~ Goatsmilk M&P with 40 Tiny Cubes Embeds (could've/should've used more than that).

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Blog Reader Challenge

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009
Once again, I have a challenge for all blog readers. Do you remember the Pirate Treasures Soaps and the Creepy Crawly Critter Soaps? My challenge is for you to send me pictures of soaps that you have embedded objects. The objects can be anything you can imagine! Soap, toys, coins, or other surprises.

Rules:
1) Submit a picture to show the soap. You can show us the whole process or just the finished soaps.
2) Tell us about your opinions of the process.
3) Any mold, soap, or embeddable is open.
4) Enjoy yourself and have fun!

Submissions will be due by October 18th. Each guest writer will receive a $25 gift certificate for their participation.

Happy Soaping!

Andee

Some objects that can be embedded.

Some objects that can be embedded.

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Spiky Melt & Pour Soap

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009
I was looking for a bar of soap in the mechanical room at home since I needed another bar of soap. I stumbled across this bar of Melt & Pour Soap I made around Christmas. I was really surprised to see little spikes on the surface of the soap. Unfortunately, the pictures I took didn’t show these little spikes well.

Have you ever seen these before? Do you know what this is? I have a few prizes for correct and the most humorous ideas.

Tomorrow, we will make soap with Soy Milk. Have you ever thought about using Soy Milk? How would you go about adding the Soy Milk?

Andee

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Coloring Soaps Red: The Problems with Red Color

Friday, June 12th, 2009
My patriotic soaps!

My patriotic soaps!

I’m a patriotic girl, and I’m proud of the flag that flies for our country. For me, that flag represents the freedom I have and so much more. Every time Independence Day rolls around, I want to make a layered soap with red, white and blue stripes. The only problem I have is that we don’t have a color that creates a true red without bleeding or fading! Let me show you a soap I made with Melt & Pour Soap that contains Purple Raspberry Dye. I’ll set one bar of this soap in the direct sunlight for the next couple of weeks, another bar will sit in indirect sunlight and the last bar will sit in an office with fluorescent lights. Every Friday, I will show you new pictures of the soaps as they age.

Enjoy!

Andee

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Scientific Analysis

Thursday, June 11th, 2009

My soap curls in the refrigerator.

My soap curls in the refrigerator.

When I was just beginning to make melt and pour soaps, I struggled with getting my temperature just right so I wouldn’t melt my inserts. Along the way, I also discovered that the amount of moisture my inserts had also made a difference of how quickly my inserts would melt. However, you don’t always have weeks to wait for them to dry out. Here is a process I discovered that just takes a 12 hour period or one night!

Make your inserts. Place them in a bowl or place and put them in the refrigerator. Wait over night. Pull them out the next day. The refrigerator will have pulled water out of your soap inserts. This will make them less likely to melt. It will also make things easier for you when you are arranging them in the mold. They will be less likely to stick to each other. Depending on how much soap is in each individual insert will depending how much water is lost.
During my experiments, I discovered I could lose 8% to 29% in weight from water. The smaller and thinner my inserts were, the more water I was able to lose. In my experiments, the inserts that lost the most amount of water were easier to work with and they were less likely to melt if I had soap that was a little too hot. I also discovered the larger inserts lost more water the longer I left them in the refrigerator. You can do some testing of your own to determine how long you should leave your inserts in the refrigerator based on your climate, type of soap, and style of refrigerator.

In order to determine how much water is lost during a period of time, weigh your cutouts and record that amount. Place your bowl on the scale and record how much it weighs. Place your cutouts in your bowl and put it in the refrigerator and wait at least 12 hours. Weigh the entire bowl with your cutouts. Record and subtract how much your bowl weighs from your initial total weight. Now divide your finished cutout weight by your original cut out weight. That will give you a percentage of how much weight in water was lost during the period of time you left it in your refrigerator. Now you can plan ahead so you know your cutouts are ready for your melt and pour soaps.

Happy Soapmaking!
taylor

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Pouring Techniques

Wednesday, June 10th, 2009
Yesterday, I showed some of the mishaps from making melt & pour soap with embedded soap pieces. How do we prevent the soap pieces from being melted by the soap we pour over the pieces? How do we have clear defined objects in our soaps? Today, I will show you how to pour your soap and not melt the soap chunks you want to embed in your soap!

Supplies needed:
Soap Chunks to embed
Transparent Melt & Pour Soap
Fragrance if desired
Spoon
Alcohol Spray (70% or 91% Rubbing Alcohol)
Thermometer (This is good until you can pinpoint a temperature by the appearance.)

Normally, I melt my Transparent soap until everything is melted and the soap is fairly hot. However, pouring my soap as hot as I normally have it, is not beneficial to embedding soap chunks in the soap. To have an appropriate temperature for pouring over the soap to be embedded, melt your Transparent soap until you have a few large chunks of soap that are not yet melted. Use the spoon and stir the Transparent soap until all of the chunks are melted. You can add fragrance at this point if you desire. You want your soap to have a slight viscosity to it, about the same viscosity of a slightly thinned rubber cement. The temperature should be between 115 and 125 degrees Fahrenheit (46.11 to 51.67 degrees Celsius). Once your soap to pour over has reached this temperature range, you are ready to pour. Spray your chunks to be embedded with the alcohol and gently pour your Transparent soap over the chunks. Once the mold has been filled with soap, spray the top of the soap with alcohol to help prevent a skin from forming and the bubbles to pop. Now you can make any final adjustments to your chunks.

Allow your soap to cool until it is completely solid. Remove from the mold and enjoy your beautiful soap!

Andee

Needed supplies.

Needed supplies.

Testing the temperature.

Testing the temperature.

Filling the molds with chunks.

Filling the molds with chunks.


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