|Hi everyone! Kathy here again feeling like I need to redeem myself (see Blowing Bubbles!)! I decided to try embedding FOAMIES in clear M&P. Hope you enjoy it!
While your soap is melting, place packing paper down on your counter. Set out 3 – 9 oz SOLO cups and 3 – .15 cc scoops. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Fractionated Coconut Oil to each cup. Add one .15 cc scoop of Neon Green Pigment colorant to one of your SOLO cups. Add two .15 cc scoops of Neon Blue Pigment colorant to another cup. And two .15 cc scoops of Violet Pearl Mica colorant to your last cup. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir each one until there are no more lumps that you can see. Leave the .15 cc scoop in each cup.
While waiting for the soap to melt, figure out the layout for each cavity. Also, stir those colorants again to make sure there are no lumps.
Once the soap is completely melted, add 1 drop of Blue liquid dye (oil or water based dye – doesn’t matter) and stir your soap. I saw this on another blog and thought I would try it! The clear M&P soap base has a yellowish tint to it, but if you add that one drop of blue dye, it makes it look clearer. See pics of before and after. I was impressed!!
Now add 2 teaspoons (9.8 mil) of Pixie Dust Fragrance Oil to soap and stir. Place your FOAMIES in each cavity (face down) and spray the FOAMIES/each cavity with alcohol. Carefully pour about 1/8″ of clear soap into each cavity, just enough to cover the FOAMIES. Spray with alcohol to burst any bubbles. Use your toothpick or bamboo skewer to gently reposition your FOAMIES – they moved when I poured my soap, arrrhg! Wait 10 minutes. Keep soap base in pot of hot water to keep it melted/warm. Pour clear soap into the SOLO cup with the Violet Pearl Mica, stir quickly but thoroughly. Spray one cavity with alcohol. Pour the colored soap into the Fairy/Swirl FOAMIES cavity to top of cavity. Spritz with alcohol again to burst any bubbles. Repeat this for each colorant/cavity – one at a time, otherwise the soap will solidify in your SOLO cup. Don’t forget to spray alcohol before pouring your second layer or they will fall apart. I had colored soap leftover in my SOLO cups so I poured it into an extra mold sitting to the side. Spray with alcohol before pouring another layer of soap! Remember ~ alcohol is your friend! Let them sit for 24 hours – do not move it! Now you’re ready to unmold!
After un-molding and trimming your bars (if necessary), place each one in a 4 x 6 shrink bag. I broke out my Monster Machine (which is very heavy) to get a nicer finish with the bags. I don’t use it very much because I usually only do CP/HP and use Dan’s Bands – so simple! I forgot how much fun M&P could be – instant gratification! Turn the heat gun on Low. Shrink the sides first, then the top and back last. Do this quickly or you run the risk of melting your soap.
Notes: I had no idea what FOAMIES were! Scrap booking maybe? When I opened the package, I noticed that they had sticky stuff (glue) on the back of each FOAMIES…that was a pain to try to get them into the cavities, face down, without them sticking to my fingers or toothpick/bamboo skewer. So I had this brilliant idea of how to get the glue off of them – yea – wait for it ;o) !! I took a piece of scotch tape and laid it over the back and pulled the tape off quickly. Not a good idea!! On the first one I tried, the butterfly wing tore off a bit. So for the next one I placed the tape on and gently removed it – it kind of worked! There was still some glue on the back, but all I needed was a small area without glue to touch with the bamboo skewer without the FOAMIES coming out with the skewer – LOL! Anyone know how to remove glue without destroying the FOAMIES? Maybe Goo Gone and a Q-tip?
Make sure your counter is level, or your bars will be crooked.
This one was fun and not as much work as my Blowing Bubbles – which look more like Brachs Jelly Nougats candy ;o) so says my family! MMS sent me a 1 oz sample of Starfruit Fragrance Oil ~ so now my brain is going crazy trying to figure out how to make M&P stars :o) !! Thanks Andee!
You can see the Dinosaur really well through the crystals in this mold.
You can barely see the ring through the crystals in this mold but enough to make it look like a real “treasure”!
I love making embedded soap. My grandchildren love it! It gives them something to look forward to and they wash their hands a lot more trying to get the toys out!
Thank you so much for making this skill easy to learn and affordable to do. The staff at MMS is so helpful and patient. Whether I call with questions about cold process soap or making hand cream they are always willing to clear up the fog of confusion I’ve created in my head. Without them I would never have attempted this craft. It has turned into one of the most useful, rewarding things I do. Thank you!
|Hi everyone! My name is Kathy and I love a challenge! I’m doing a soap in soap embed as my challenge. Hope you enjoy it! I really thought this was going to be easy ~ but it turned into a lot of work!! This little project took 4 days to complete!!
Ingredients/Equipment needed ~ for EMBED soap:
While your soap is melting, place packing paper down on your counter. Set out 8 – 9 oz SOLO cups and 8 – .15 cc scoops. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Fractionated Coconut Oil to each cup. Add one .15 cc scoop of each Neon Pigment colorant to each cup. I used 1/4 teaspoon of the Mica in its cup. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir each one until there are no more lumps that you can see. (Note: The Blue & Purple Neon Pigments could have used two .15 cc scoops) Leave the .15 cc scoop in each cup.
While you’re waiting for the soap to melt, stir each colorant/cup again – just to make sure it has dissolved completely – we don’t want any lumps of colorant to show up in our embeds! According to Andee, this is called “Mulling Pigments” – that’s a new word for me!
Once the soap is melted, turn the stove down to Low, but keep the Pyrex in the hot water between pours to keep it melted. Pour some melted M&P into your first SOLO cup/colorant about half full (I’m going to guess around 4 to 4.5 oz for each cup). Put the Pyrex back into the hot water. Using the .15 cc scoop, stir the colorant/soap base quickly (but thoroughly) and pour into your embed molds. Spray with Alcohol to remove any bubbles. Repeat this until all 8 colors/SOLO cups are mixed and poured. Do NOT pour your M&P soap base into every cup upfront – it will solidify quickly! I could only do 4 colorants/cups a day because I did not have enough EMBED molds to complete this part! Save the SOLO cups after you’ve poured your colored M&P soap!
I waited 24 hours before unmolding my tiny cubes, bottle cubes and circles. Then I had to remelt my M&P to finish the last 4 colors…next time (next time?) I’ll buy more ice cube and bottle cube trays so that I can finish this in one day! After unmolding, I stored each colored M&P embeds in their respective (used) SOLO cup.
Ingredients/Equipment needed ~ for OVERPOUR soap:
Once melted, add the Mica/FO to the soap base. Stir well. This really didn’t whiten my Goatsmilk M&P base that much. Should have used White M&P, then I wouldn’t have to use any whitener. Turn the stove down to Low.
Important: Figure out your layout in the mold before you start!
Are you ready??!! You can not afford ANY interruptions for this part! OK, here we go!!
Now you’re ready to unmold and cut!
After cutting your bars, place each bar in a 6 X 6 shrink bag. I had to cut the bags on the sides and top. The 4 x 6 bags were just too small for my bars. After cutting the bag, I wrapped it against the bar and taped it shut – like wrapping a present. Or use an Impulse Cutter/Sealer, if you have one. Turn the heat gun on Low. Shrink the sides first, then the top and back last. Do this quickly or you run the risk of melting your soap. I don’t worry about this with CP, but M&P is a whole different beast!! ;o)
If you use the double boiler method, I found that melting M&P in a stainless steel pot melts a lot quicker than using a Pyrex cup.
I did not use the freezer for any part of this. The freezer method tends to leave dew on the embeds, plus it’s too cold to use as embeds in a warm/hot over-pour.
Remember ~ alcohol is your friend! If you don’t use alcohol, your layers will come apart. The alcohol dissipates – so don’t worry about using too much! You cannot smell any alcohol whatsoever – just that wonderful fragrance oil!
Do not scent your Embeds ~ I have alot left over which I can use on another batch. It’s best to over-scent your overpour soap.
|Once again, I have a challenge for all blog readers. Do you remember the Pirate Treasures Soaps and the Creepy Crawly Critter Soaps? My challenge is for you to send me pictures of soaps that you have embedded objects. The objects can be anything you can imagine! Soap, toys, coins, or other surprises.
Submissions will be due by October 18th. Each guest writer will receive a $25 gift certificate for their participation.
I’m a patriotic girl, and I’m proud of the flag that flies for our country. For me, that flag represents the freedom I have and so much more. Every time Independence Day rolls around, I want to make a layered soap with red, white and blue stripes. The only problem I have is that we don’t have a color that creates a true red without bleeding or fading! Let me show you a soap I made with Melt & Pour Soap that contains Purple Raspberry Dye. I’ll set one bar of this soap in the direct sunlight for the next couple of weeks, another bar will sit in indirect sunlight and the last bar will sit in an office with fluorescent lights. Every Friday, I will show you new pictures of the soaps as they age.
When I was just beginning to make melt and pour soaps, I struggled with getting my temperature just right so I wouldn’t melt my inserts. Along the way, I also discovered that the amount of moisture my inserts had also made a difference of how quickly my inserts would melt. However, you don’t always have weeks to wait for them to dry out. Here is a process I discovered that just takes a 12 hour period or one night!
Make your inserts. Place them in a bowl or place and put them in the refrigerator. Wait over night. Pull them out the next day. The refrigerator will have pulled water out of your soap inserts. This will make them less likely to melt. It will also make things easier for you when you are arranging them in the mold. They will be less likely to stick to each other. Depending on how much soap is in each individual insert will depending how much water is lost.
During my experiments, I discovered I could lose 8% to 29% in weight from water. The smaller and thinner my inserts were, the more water I was able to lose. In my experiments, the inserts that lost the most amount of water were easier to work with and they were less likely to melt if I had soap that was a little too hot. I also discovered the larger inserts lost more water the longer I left them in the refrigerator. You can do some testing of your own to determine how long you should leave your inserts in the refrigerator based on your climate, type of soap, and style of refrigerator.
In order to determine how much water is lost during a period of time, weigh your cutouts and record that amount. Place your bowl on the scale and record how much it weighs. Place your cutouts in your bowl and put it in the refrigerator and wait at least 12 hours. Weigh the entire bowl with your cutouts. Record and subtract how much your bowl weighs from your initial total weight. Now divide your finished cutout weight by your original cut out weight. That will give you a percentage of how much weight in water was lost during the period of time you left it in your refrigerator. Now you can plan ahead so you know your cutouts are ready for your melt and pour soaps.
|Yesterday, I showed some of the mishaps from making melt & pour soap with embedded soap pieces. How do we prevent the soap pieces from being melted by the soap we pour over the pieces? How do we have clear defined objects in our soaps? Today, I will show you how to pour your soap and not melt the soap chunks you want to embed in your soap!
Normally, I melt my Transparent soap until everything is melted and the soap is fairly hot. However, pouring my soap as hot as I normally have it, is not beneficial to embedding soap chunks in the soap. To have an appropriate temperature for pouring over the soap to be embedded, melt your Transparent soap until you have a few large chunks of soap that are not yet melted. Use the spoon and stir the Transparent soap until all of the chunks are melted. You can add fragrance at this point if you desire. You want your soap to have a slight viscosity to it, about the same viscosity of a slightly thinned rubber cement. The temperature should be between 115 and 125 degrees Fahrenheit (46.11 to 51.67 degrees Celsius). Once your soap to pour over has reached this temperature range, you are ready to pour. Spray your chunks to be embedded with the alcohol and gently pour your Transparent soap over the chunks. Once the mold has been filled with soap, spray the top of the soap with alcohol to help prevent a skin from forming and the bubbles to pop. Now you can make any final adjustments to your chunks.
Allow your soap to cool until it is completely solid. Remove from the mold and enjoy your beautiful soap!
Continue reading Pouring Techniques
|What about the mishaps that occur when you make a Melt & Pour Soap? Did the color swirls bleed? Did your embedded items pop out of the mold? Did you put too much glitter in the soap?
Once these mishaps have occurred, there is very little we can do to fix the soaps unless we decide that these soaps are not mishaps, but soaps with artistic license. Look at these soaps and decide for yourself. Are these soap mishaps or soaps with artistic license?
|Now you have your adorable curls and cutouts. As cute as they are now, unfortunately they don’t last very long as individual soaps. One thing you can do is place them inside a larger translucent bar. Now your masterpieces will last longer! How fun!
You will need:
Curls and Cutouts
Place your mold on a flat surface. Fill your mold with your curls and cutouts. Arrange them until you are satisfied. Remember, you are looking at your soap from the bottem. Spray your curls and cutouts with alcohol so bubbles do not form on them inside your soap.
Slowly pour your cooled melt and pour soap into the mold. You will want to do it gently otherwise your carefully arranged pattern will move and you may not like the result. Once you have filled the mold, allow the soap to cool. Now you have an incredibly classy soap. You can use it for everything from bridal showers to birthday parties!
Note: You will want to be cautious because if your melt and pour soap is too hot it will melt your curls and cutouts and make them swirl. It is an interesting effect but one you may not want.
Don’t miss Melt and Pour Mishaps, Pouring Techniques and Scientific Analysis next week!
Continue reading Placing Curls & Cutouts
|I have always loved making sugar cookies and making fun shapes with either a cookie cutter or a knife. I love making hearts and stars and clouds. They are so fun and cute! It made me wish I could show everyone my masterpieces. I am going to show you have to make fun shapes to place in your soap. Even if you prefer to use cookie cutters, you will have everyone praising you, because using cookie cutters is not bad, or even cheating. Consider yourself an artist. You are! Some artists use darts and balloons, while others use paintbrushes.
You will need:
Melt and Pour Soap of your choice (Transparent, White and Olive)
Line your baking sheet or mold with parchment, waxed paper, or a silicon spray for easy removal. Melt the soap designated for your cutouts. Color and scent as desired. Remember, do not use a dye as it will bleed through your finished bar of soap. In this example, I used the fragrance Cinnamon Bear and the pigment Lavender Fields. Pour the soap on your baking sheet and allow to cool. Pour in enough soap to create the thickness you want your cutouts to be. Once cool and firm, you can use miniature cookie cutters, a knife, or a toothpick to create and cutout your designs. It is recommended that you cut your designs when your soap is firm.
If your soap cutouts are extremely thin, they will curl. Should you desire that effect, pour your soap so you have a small thin sheet. If you do not want it to curl, pour your soap sheet so it is thicker.
If you don’t want the trouble of trying to keep to two cookie cutter sets separate, you can trace your design on paper or directly on the surface of your soap with a knife or toothpick. Then you can cut it out. TADA! Now you are already to put your cutouts in a bar of soap.