Adventures With The Sage

I’ll be using the Lip Gloss for the Lip Brush recipe found in our Recipe Collection. I did make a few changes for the flavor, but I think those changes were for the better!

Collect needed items:

Recipe: (Makes 1 ounce or 28 grams. Fills approximately 14 lip brush pens.)

Note: Q.S. means quantity sufficient. You do not need much Silver Mica or Yellow Oil Soluble Lip Balm Color. This recipe needs so little that we can’t measure it! So we use Q.S. to say use as much as you need to achieve the right color, flavor, etc.

Begin by weighing the Carnauba Wax and Castor Oil. After measuring the ingredients, microwave using short time bursts until the wax is melted. Add flavors. Now the color and mica can be added. I used the tip of a clean pipette and pulled it across the top of the color and then used that pipette to stir the mixture until the color was completely mixed in. I then used a new pipette and put the tip into the mica to scoop a small amount into the lip gloss. Using the pipette I used for the color, I stirred the mixture to decide if it needed more mica or not. Once you are satisfied with the color, fill the brushes while the mixture is still warm. Leave them standing upright until they have cooled. If the mixture gets into the small metal tube before it is cooled, the metal can cause the mixture to solidify over the opening and material will be difficult to advance into the brush.

Today I wanted to make a lip gloss that is creamy, a little more viscous but still light on the lips. This can present a bit of a challenge. A light feeling lip gloss that won’t go running everywhere is not easy. Oils and waxes that make a product more viscous tend to be heavier weight oils. Take Castor Oil for example. It is a heavy weight oil that provides viscosity and glide. It is also one of my favorite oils for lip products. However, because I am presenting myself with a challenge, I will not be using Castor Oil. I will approach formulating a lip gloss in a completely new method for me. Are you intrigued? I hope so! Come join me in the kitchen for a fabulous and very different lip gloss.

First I started with Beeswax. At a low percentage, beeswax can contribute to the viscosity without making the finished product feel heavy or more importantly, waxy.

I also used Aloe Butter. Aloe Butter lends itself nicely to this formulation challenge. It is solid at room temperature but melts on the skin. This means it helps with keeping the viscosity of the product prior to use but once applied, applies itself to a light emollient feeling.

High Melt Point Shea kept this formulation from feeling too light. While I am looking for a light lip gloss, I didn’t want this to feel like a lip oil. I wanted it to have a little substance to it. It also helps give an enjoyable, lasting creaminess.

Next I used Vitamin E Acetate. Vitamin E Acetate is an anti-oxidant. Anti-oxidants helps prevent your oils from turning rancid. Have you ever dug a lip stick out of the bottom of a drawer or purse, applied it then promptly thrown it away because it tastes bad? This is because the oils have oxidized. Nasty, right?

Next I used Macadamia Nut Oil. This oil is a light to medium weight oil. Macadamia Nut Oil is great because it is lighter but has a nice glossy finish. It is also wonderful for label appeal because it is consider more of an exotic oil.

Cherry Seed Oil is a nice, light weight oil. Cherry Seed Oil is high in oleic acid. It is also very good for combating dry, itchy skin. Can you think of a better light weight oil for lip balm?! It is perfect.

This just leaves Orchid Extract and Champagne Flavor Oil in this formulation. Orchid Extract is a wonderful booster. Extracts take a good product and make them great! I chose Champagne Flavor Oil because I felt this formulation was a light luxury lip gloss. However, feel free to use any flavor oil of your choice. If you use an essential oil or other flavor oil be sure to adjust the percentage as needed. Not all flavors are used at the same rate!

The finished lip gloss is mildly fluid but not very. It would slowly roll down a vertical pane of glass. For this reason, it would be best to put this formulation into a lip brush or pen. It would only work in a roller bottle if it is constantly warm. However in the winter months, it would be frustrating to use.

Recipe:

Weigh everything except Champagne Flavor Oil and Vitamin E Acetate in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. Add the Champagne Flavor Oil and Vitamin E Acetate. Stir well. Cool slightly. You don’t want to put a superheated lip gloss into containers. Pour into containers and allow to cool completely. Label and enjoy!

Virgin Coconut Oil is a dream to work with! It has wonderful odor and flavor. It also melts near body temperature making any lip balms just glide smoothly onto the lips.

I also used Palm Kernel Oil in the recipe. I like Palm Kernel Oil because it is white and it also fills my need for a brittle oil in the lip balm formulation. An added bonus is how economical it is to add to a formulation. You don’t need to break the bank on your soaps, lotions and other toiletries. You can have amazing products without having to pay through-the-roof prices. 

Castor Oil gives lip products a smooth creaminess and long lasting power. Castor Oil also gives lip products their smooth glide, which is so common it has become a signature.

Lastly, I used Cherry Seed Oil in this formulation because of how light it is. It will not feel heavy or greasy. Perfect for an intro to summer!

Recipe:

Weigh everything except the Coconut Flavor Oil and the Silver Mica in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. If it does not get hot enough to completely melt the Soy Wax, it could fractionate. If unsure, try the plate test before putting into containers. Add the Coconut Flavor Oil and the Silver Mica. Stir well. Pour into containers and allow to cool. Label and enjoy!

The Plate Test: The plate test allows you to try your lip balm to see if it has the perfect flavor, color and texture prior to filling your containers. I consider this test invaluable because it prevents failed batches, even those that have failed due to fractionation. You can catch it prior to filling your containers, preventing the entire project from needing to be scrapped. Whew! Isn’t that wonderful?

To use the plate test method have a porcelain, glass or ceramic plate on hand. I use one that is at room temperature. This gives you the most accurate texture information versus  using a plate that has been in the freezer. A plate that was in the freezer will actually promote the balm feeling more brittle than it really is. Take a few drops of your lip balm solution and drizzle them onto your plate. Allow them to set up. This should take no more than about 15 to 30 seconds. Rub your finger on the cooled lip balm. You can then rub it on your lips.

Is the taste right? How about the texture? If it is just right, you can fill your containers. If not, check your notes. Did it get hot enough? What is in your formulation? Did everything get added? Remember, if you are struggling with fractionation just stop and let the lip balm set up. Call or email us and we can review your formulation and process. Don’t fill the containers with lip balm that isn’t quite right. Remember, we are only an email or phone call away. We can help!

Next I used Macadamia Nut Oil. This is a light to medium weight oil. Popular in massages, it adds nice glide without feeling overwhelmingly heavy.

At this point, I still needed something a little more solid to keep it from leaking all over the place. Cocoa Butter is a perfect choice, especially considering it will melt on the skin! I chose to use Deodorized Cocoa Butter so it would not interfere with any flavors I might choose to use.

My formulation was still to high in liquid oils so I added Beeswax. This does two major things in this formulation. First, it keeps it viscous enough to stay in the pen and second, once applied, it gives a protective coating to the lips. This makes it perfect for dry and/or cracked lips.

Lastly, I used Vitamin E Acetate. Vitamin E Acetate is an anti-oxident. It prevents your oils from oxidizing or in the case of a lip product, tasting funny. Vitamin E Acetate is a wonderful product to use, particularly if you are using oils with a shorter shelf life.

Recipe:

Weigh everything except Coconut Flavor Oil and Vitamin E Acetate in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. Add the Coconut Flavor Oil and Vitamin E Acetate. Stir well. Cool slightly. You don’t want to put a superheated lip gloss into containers. Pour into containers and allow to cool completely. Label and enjoy!

This lip scrub highlights our Green Tea Butter beautifully! I think this lovely butter is under-recognized and under-appreciated. I think the Green Tea Butter is a wonderful addition to your cupboard. Try some. I am sure you will get raving reviews!

I used Cherry Oil because it is light. When using a lip scrub, you don’t want the residue to feel heavy and greasy. This oil is perfect for a lip scrub application!

Peach Kernel Oil is also a very light oil. Another great to to help combat a heavy, greasy feeling. A must have in any cupboard!

I used Vanilla Oleoresin to flavor the sugar prior to making this recipe. I used Vanilla Oleoresin because it has strong flavor compared to the Natural Vanilla Oil. However, because it is a water soluble product you must mix it well into the sugar and let it dry prior to use. The good news it that you use so little vanilla oleoresin, it doesn’t take very long for it to dry.

I also used High Melt Point Shea Butter to make this lip scrub a little stiffer and creamier. Just make sure you have this mixed well as this recipe does not get heated.

Recipe:

Weigh out sugar into a container or bag. I recommend a bag because it makes it easier to mix. Dip the end of a toothpick into the Vanilla Oleoresin. Transfer the Vanilla Oleoresin to the sugar. Mix until the sugar is a golden brown color with no dark specks. In a separate container, weigh your oils. I also used a bag because I do not have a small food processor. I find a bag one of the fastest and cleanest ways to mix a lot of things. Once everything has been fully mixed, transfer to containers. Enjoy!

Note: Q.S. means quantity sufficient. You do not need much Vanilla Oleoresin. This recipe needs so little that we can’t measure it! So we use Q.S. to say use as much as you need to achieve the right color, flavor, etc.

I wanted to work with Soy Wax again for several reasons. First, I wanted to see if keeping to light or white colored oils and waxes would result in a similar color as our soap from yesterday. Second, I have talked with other lip balm makers, some of which have struggled with fractionation when using Soy Wax. I will agree. If it is a new product to your cupboard, it is a little tricky. I even struggled with my first batch of lip balm using it. So I wanted to give others who might have struggle with Soy Wax a trick that I have developed, without needing a thermometer.

I also used Palm Kernel Oil in the recipe. I like Palm Kernel Oil because it is white and it also fills my need for a brittle oil in the lip balm formulation. An added bonus is how economical it is to add to a formulation. You don’t need to break the bank on your soaps, lotions and other toiletries. You can have amazing products without having to pay crazy prices.

Hydrogenated Soy is also a nice oil to add to a lip balm formulation. It is smooth, creamy and long lasting without feeling too heavy or sticky. I think Hydrogenated Soy adds a very nice and luxurious feel to a lip balm. Try some in your next lip balms. I think you will be surprised and in love!

I used High Melt Point Shea Butter in this formulation. I prefer High Melt Point Shea Butter over the regular Shea Butter for lip balms because it is smooth and creamy but doesn’t cause a problem if it has been in a pocket. I believe all lip balms should be able to pass the pocket test. A lip balm should be able to sit in someones pocket without melting and becoming so soft the user is unable to apply it to their lips.

Next I used Castor Oil. As the resident Queen of Lip Balms at MMS, Castor Oil is my favorite. I am called the Queen of Lip Balms because I have so many lip balms. Right now, I have no less than five different lip balms, two lip glosses and one lip stain in my purse at the moment. Castor Oil gives lip products a smooth creaminess and long lasting power. Castor Oil is a common ingredient in lipsticks as well. It is what gives lipsticks their smooth glide, which is a signature for lipsticks everywhere.

Lastly, I used Sugar Baby. Sugar Baby is a sweetener. I wanted to soften the harsh notes of the Coffee Oil. If you are a black coffee drinker, feel free to omit the Sugar Baby. However, I feel the Sugar Baby not only sweetens the lip balm but gives the Coffee Oil a smoother, rounder and more full bodied flavor. Would you use Sugar Baby in your lip balm?

Recipe:

Weigh everything except Sugar Baby Flavor Oil in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. If it does not get hot enough to completely melt the Soy Wax, it could fractionate. If unsure, try the plate test before putting into containers. Add the Sugar Baby Flavor Oil. Stir well. Pour into containers and allow to cool. Label and enjoy!

The Plate Test: The plate test allows you to try your lip balm to see if it has the perfect flavor, color and texture prior to filling your containers. I consider this test invaluable because it prevents failed batches, even those that have failed due to fractionation. You can catch it prior to filling your containers, preventing the entire project from needing to be scrapped. Whew! Isn’t that wonderful?

To use the plate test method, have a porcelain, glass or ceramic plate ready. I use one that is at room temperature. This gives you the most accurate texture than using a plate that has been in the freezer. Take a few drops of your lip balm solution and drizzle them onto your plate. Allow them to set up. This should take no more than about 15 to 30 seconds. Rub your finger on the cooled lip balm. You can then rub it on your lips.

Is the taste right? How about the texture? If it is just right, you can fill your containers. If not, check your notes. Did it get hot enough? What is your formulation? Remember, if you are struggling with fractionation, we are only an email or phone call away. We can help!

I wasn’t looking for something that would be as glossy or creamy. I wanted more of a work horse formulation. I wanted something that would be more acceptable among men. Men don’t look for a creamy, smooth gliding and shiny lip balm. They want something helps prevent chapped lips. I think this is perfect for that!

I wasn’t worried so much about color and I find Beeswax is a more available in my own cupboard. Based on your needs, you can use Soy Wax, Calendula or even Carnauba Wax. I personally prefer beeswax. Perhaps it reminds me of my father and the smell of him when he came in from tending the beehives.

I also used Babassu Oil in this recipe. It is very smooth and creamy. Also it adds a softness and silkiness to the finished product. It is perfect because it balances the world of luxury oils and the world of economical oils. I love it when awesome oils such as this are at an affordable price!

I also used Rice Bran Oil. Rice Bran is a lighter oil which helps the lip balm from feeling heavy or greasy. Perfect for a workhorse lip balm. What oils would you use?

I also added a small amount of Menthol Crystals. Menthol Crystals add a cooling and tingling sensation to the lips. I have many people ask me for a strong mint flavored lip balm. I find adding a small amount of menthol crystals to a lip balm with peppermint makes them happy without worrying about exceeding the usage rate of the Peppermint Essential Oil.

Recipe:

Weigh everything except Sugar Baby Flavor Oil, Peppermint Essential Oil and Blue Lip Balm in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. Add the Sugar Baby Flavor Oil, Peppermint Essential Oil and Blue Lip Balm. I used a toothpick to add the Blue Lip Color. With this ingredient, a toothpick amount is all you need. A little goes a long way. Stir well. Pour into containers and allow to cool. Label and enjoy!

However, China is gearing up for the Lunar New Year. The enormity of the holiday is crashing about my ears!I have found that as people get ready to go home for the Lunar New Year or I get introduced to new people, it is common for gifts to be exchanged. I wanted to share my two recipes for a lip balm that I keep in my bag just in case I find myself in need of a small gift to exchange. And the best part is that a lip balm doesn’t take much space in my purse either!

Today we will be looking at recipe I formulated both for texture and light color. I prefer creamy, smooth and easy to apply lip balms. I also really like lip balms light in color, especially when I will be adding color to it.

I used Soy Wax because it is so light in color. However, I have found that using the Soy Wax is a little tricky. You need to make sure that is is fully melted. The liquid lip balm mixture should have a bright, clear, glistening quality to it. Otherwise, you may struggle with fractionation, due to the fact that it wasn’t fully melted.

I used High Melt Point Shea Butter in this formulation. I prefer High Melt Point Shea Butter over the regular Shea Butter for anhydrous mixtures, like lip balm. Shea Butter lends a creamy and soft shine to the lip balm.

I also used Peach Kernel Oil. It is a light oil that adds a nice smoothness to the lip balm without lending a heavy greasiness to the final product. I think Peach Kernel Oil is a absolute must to add to your selection of luxury oils.

The last little things I added to this recipe was a flavor oil, essential oil and lip balm color. I wanted it to be flavored with the Rose Otto Essential Oil but I also wanted it to be a little sweeter. I also wanted a smidgen of color. I thought an elegant pink would fit the flavor perfectly!

Recipe:

Weigh everything except Sugar Baby Flavor Oil, Rose Otto and Ruby Lip Balm in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. If it does not get hot enough to completely melt the Soy Wax, it could fractionate. If unsure, try the plate test before putting into containers. Add the Rose Otto, Sugar Baby Flavor Oil and Ruby Lip Color. I used a toothpick to add the Ruby Lip Color and the Rose Otto. With both of these ingredients, a toothpick amount is all you need. A little goes a long way. Stir well. Pour into containers and allow to cool. Label and enjoy!

2.02 ounces Sodium Hydroxide for 6% Excess Fat
4-6 ounces Water

1 teaspoon Honey (Max amount per pound of oils used)
2 teaspoons Finely Ground Oatmeal (Max amount per pound of oils used)

q.s. Sodium Hydroxide for 6% Excess Fat
q.s. Water

q.s. Honey
q.s. Finely Ground Oatmeal

*q.s. = Quantity Sufficient. This is an ingredient that needs to have the amount calculated to match the size of batch that you are making.

Shea Butter: I wanted to use Shea Butter to give the lip scrub a cream feel as well as a low odor impact on the finished product.

Peach Kernel Oil: I chose Peach Kernel Oil for this lip scrub for the light feel it has as I didn’t want any lips to feel like there were heavy weights on them!

Vitamin E Acetate: I wanted to extend the shelf life of this product by slowing the oxidation process. Vitamin E Acetate was my first choice!

I flavored this lip scrub with Natural Vanilla Oil and sweetened it with our Sugar Baby Flavor Oil. Trust me, it is fabulously yummy! Let’s go make some now!

Collect needed items:

Recipe: (Makes 100 grams or 3.53 ounces)

Weigh all of the ingredients into the food processor bowl. Gently pulse the ingredients together until thoroughly mixed. Once the scrub is mixed together, fill the jars and cap.

Notes:
If you want to make a small batch, you can easily use a small personal blender like I did for these photos. I used a food processor attachment for a stick blender.

How do I use this?:
I’ve been asked over the phone about how I use a lip scrub, so here is how I use a lip scrub. Scoop a pea sized amount out of the jar. Using your finger, rub the scrub over your lips. Don’t scrub too much, or you can irritate your lips. Now you can either wipe your lips off, or lick them! Apply a lip balm and now you have pampered your lips!

This simple lip scrub is very reminiscent of holiday baked goods and a perfectly sweet way to exfoliate your lips. I hope you enjoy this scrub as much as I do!

Enjoy!