Archive for the ‘Cold Process Soap’ Category

Confetti Soap, Part 4

Friday, October 16th, 2009
On October 1st, I showed the finished batch of Confetti Soap using shreds. Today, I’ll show you the finished batch of Confetti Soap using chunks.

Collect needed supplies:
Soap we made on October 1st, cut into chunks
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Sweet Almond Oil
Fragrance Oil of your choice (I’m going to be using Pears & Berries Fragrance Oil)
Scale

Recipe in ounces:
40 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
20 ounces weight Coconut Oil
20 ounces weight Sweet Almond Oil

30 fluid ounces water
11.1 ounces weight sodium hydroxide

1.4 ounces of Pears & Berries Fragrance Oil

24 ounces of soap chunks from soap made on Thursday. I used 8 ounces of each color.

Weighing time: 8 minutes
Adding lye to water: 5 seconds, followed by 60 seconds of stirring
Heating of oils time: 2 minutes
Pouring lye solution into the fat mixture: 5 seconds
Using immersion blender to mix soap solution: 2 minutes
Mix shreds or chunks into the soap solution: 30 seconds
Pour into mold: 30 seconds
Allow soap to rest: 24 hours

Soap out of the mold and unwrapped.

Soap out of the mold and unwrapped.

Cut bars of soap.

Cut bars of soap.

Notes:
You will want to make sure that the soap is thicker than the water thin trace that we generally have. This will prevent the soap shreds from settling to the bottom of soap.

Have fun!

Submit your photos and text for the guest written Embedded Melt & Pour Soap Challenge! Submissions will be accepted through October 18th at blog@thesage.com. The submissions will be released October 19th through October 23rd. Each guest writer will receive a $25 gift certificate. I have already received one entry! Don’t miss out on your chance!

Don’t forget to submit your blog or video posts to win the MMS Perfumer’s Kit. Remember, this kit is worth $280! Wow!

Andee

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Confetti Soap, Part 3

Thursday, October 1st, 2009
I cut the confetti soap and it looks FANTASTIC! As you can see by the pictures, I’ve stacked the soaps Stonehenge style and I’ll turn them daily until they have cured for a few days. Once they can handle the rigors of shipping, I’ll send samples back to the shipping department to be shipped out with orders.

Next week, I’ll show the Confetti Soap made with chunks instead of shreds.

Have fun!

Submit your photos and text for the guest written Embedded Melt & Pour Soap Challenge! Submissions will be accepted through October 18th at blog@thesage.com. The submissions will be released October 19th through October 23rd. Each guest writer will receive a $25 gift certificate.

Don’t forget to submit your blog or video posts to win the MMS Perfumer’s Kit. Remember, this kit is worth $280! Wow!

Andee

The soap out of the mold and with the bag peeled off.

The soap out of the mold and with the bag peeled off.

Cut bars of soap stacked Stonehenge style.

Cut bars of soap stacked Stonehenge style.

A close up of a bar of soap.

A close up of a bar of soap.

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Confetti Soap, Part 2

Monday, September 28th, 2009
Thursday, I made three batches of soap with colors for making a confetti soap. Today, I’m going to grate and chop those batches to show you the difference between pieces and then use the pieces to make two separate batches of confetti soap.

Collect needed supplies:
Soap we made on Thursday
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Fragrance Oil of your choice (I’m going to be using Pears & Berries Fragrance Oil)
Scale

Recipe in ounces:
40 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
20 ounces weight Coconut Oil
20 ounces weight Olive Oil

30 fluid ounces water
11 ounces weight sodium hydroxide

1.4 ounces of Pears & Berries Fragrance Oil

24 ounces of soap shreds from soap made on Thursday. I used 8 ounces of each color.

Weighing time: 8 minutes
Adding lye to water: 5 seconds, followed by 60 seconds of stirring
Heating of oils time: 2 minutes
Pouring lye solution into the fat mixture: 5 seconds
Using immersion blender to mix soap solution: 2 minutes
Mix shreds or chunks into the soap solution: 30 seconds
Pour into mold: 30 seconds
Allow soap to rest: 24 hours

Notes:
You will want to make sure that the soap is thicker than the water thin trace that we generally have. This will prevent the soap shreds from settling to the bottom of soap.

Have fun!

Submit your photos and text for the guest written Embedded Melt & Pour Soap Challenge! Submissions will be accepted through October 18th at blog@thesage.com. The submissions will be released October 19th through October 23rd. Each guest writer will receive a $25 gift certificate.

Don’t forget to submit your blog or video posts to win the MMS Perfumer’s Kit. Remember, this kit is worth $280! Wow!

Andee

Shredded soap.

Shredded soap.

Measured oils.

Measured oils.

Mixing the lye solution.

Mixing the lye solution.

Placing shreds into a plastic bag.

Placing shreds into a plastic bag.

(more…)

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Confetti Soap, Part 1

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

My three soaps after finishing the last batch.

My three soaps after finishing the last batch.

I love playing with confetti, but I absolutely hate cleaning it up. Why not make a cold process Confetti Soap that embodies the joy of playing with confetti while keeping the mess to a minimum? Today, we will make the colored cold process soap for our confetti soap. I will use our pigments to prevent bleeding colors. I am going to use the same recipe that we use for our test batches.

Collect needed supplies:
Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Pigments of your choice (I’m going to be using Mint Green, Lavender Fields, and Amethyst Pink
Fragrance Oil of your choice (I’m going to be using Pears & Berries Fragrance Oil)

Recipe in ounces:
8 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 ounces weight Coconut Oil
4 ounces weight Olive Oil

2.2 ounces Sodium Hydroxide
6 fluid ounces Water

0.2 ounces of Pears & Berries Fragrance Oil

1 teaspoon of desired color

Weighing time: 8 minutes
Adding lye to water: 5 seconds, followed by 60 seconds of stirring
Heating of oils time: 2 minutes
Pouring lye solution into the fat mixture: 5 seconds
Using immersion blender to mix soap solution: 90 seconds
Pour into mold: 10 seconds
Allow soap to rest: 24 hours

I will make my three color batches today, and tomorrow I will show you how to make the confetti soap.

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Making Soy Milk Soap with the Half and Half Method

Friday, August 28th, 2009
Yesterday, I promised that I would show making a Soy Milk Soap with the half and half method. I am using the same recipe to show any differences that occur while making the soap.

8 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 ounces weight Coconut Oil
4 ounces weight Olive Oil

2.2 ounces Sodium Hydroxide
3 fluid ounces Soy Milk
3 fluid ounces Water

Weighing time: 8 minutes
Adding lye to Soy Milk and water: 5 seconds, followed by 60 seconds of stirring
Heating of oils time: 2 minutes
Pouring lye solution into the fat mixture: 5 seconds
Using immersion blender to mix soap solution: 90 seconds
Pour into mold: 10 seconds
Allow soap to rest: 24 hours

Note:
I have attached two photos of Soy Milk soap that have gone wrong. This is a great example of why the half water and half milk method can be helpful for those learning how to make milk soaps. Soy Milk is high in carbohydrates whichi is causing a problem in all Soy Milk Soaps. Half and half method to the rescue! Start with the half and half method and you will find that your soaps will turn out better.

On Monday, I’ll show you an amazing Twilight party!

Have fun soaping!
Andee

Adding Lye to the Soy Milk and water.

Adding Lye to the Soy Milk and water.

Mixing the lye solution.

Mixing the lye solution.

(more…)

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Making Soy Milk Soap

Thursday, August 27th, 2009
As I mentioned on The Sage Forum, “Milk brings to soap a few problems, lactose is the primary issue, but certainly not the only one. The sugars in milk can settle out of the soap during a the heat wave we call saponification. This looks like a gelatinous mass on the bottom of the soap mold. Sometimes it looks something like monster snot. Avoiding this situation means we get a beautiful and usable soap.”

Soy Milk does not contain the lactose that can give any soap maker problems. I decided to make my soap using Soy Milk as my liquid of choice. I will not be adding any additive to the soap to see how it turns out.

8 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 ounces weight Coconut Oil
4 ounces weight Olive Oil

2.2 ounces Sodium Hydroxide
6 fluid ounces Soy Milk

Weighing time: 8 minutes
Adding lye to Soy Milk: 5 seconds, followed by 60 seconds of stirring
Heating of oils time: 2 minutes
Pouring lye solution into the fat mixture: 5 seconds
Using immersion blender to mix soap solution: 90 seconds
Pour into mold: 10 seconds
Allow soap to rest: 24 hours

This recipe is the same as the test batch that we use for fragrance testing. If the protein gives you trouble, make a half Soy Milk and half water batch. Tomorrow I will show you my half Soy Milk and half water batch.

Have fun soaping!
Andee

Adding lye to the Soy Milk.

Adding lye to the Soy Milk.

Stirring the lye and Soy Milk.

Stirring the lye and Soy Milk.

Wow! What a color change!

Wow! What a color change!

(more…)

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Lots of Swirls!

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009
Lately, I’ve been having lots of fun making cold process soap and I’ve been on a swirls kick! I made a Cinnamon Rosemary Soap with Brown Oxide for the swirls. I also made a soap with Bulgarian Lavender and I used Lavender Fields for the swirls. Both of these soaps turned out so well I had to share the pictures of the finished soaps with you!

Recipe for Bulgarian Lavender Soap

8 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 ounces weight Coconut Oil
4 ounces weight Olive Oil

2.2 ounces Sodium Hydroxide
6 fluid ounces water

9.5 mL of Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil

1/2 teaspoon of Lavender Fields Dry Color

Bulgarian Lavender Soap on the left and Cinnamon Rosemary Soap on the right.

Bulgarian Lavender Soap on the left and Cinnamon Rosemary Soap on the right.

Recipe for Cinnamon Rosemary Soap

8 ounces weight Hydrogenated Soybean Oil
4 ounces weight Coconut Oil
4 ounces weight Olive Oil

2.2 ounces Sodium Hydroxide
6 fluid ounces water

3.5 mL of Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil
6.5 mL of Rosemary Essential Oil

1/2 teaspoon of Brown Oxide Dry Color

If you didn’t catch the announcement last week, MMS now has a Twitter account! This is a great way to be updated on price changes and new product releases. For example, information about projected Cocoa Butter prices, newly released products and new prices on products have been released lately and the first to know were reading our Twitter.
Here is the direct link to our Twitter account. http://twitter.com/mmtnsage

If you are interested, there is a swap on the forum. It is a Fall Themed Swap with a due date of September 1st. Head over to the forum if you are interested in joining.

Andee

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How to use the Original Lye Calculator

Thursday, July 30th, 2009
A sample recipe from our Lye Calculator. Click for a larger image.

A sample recipe from our Lye Calculator. Click for a larger image.

Did you know the Lye Calculator has been in operation since 1996? Many soap makers have used the Lye Calculator for their recipes and even for checking recipes they were given by fellow soap makers. However, those who are new to making soap want to be able to use the Lye Calculator easily.

Several years ago, a tutorial was created for the Lye Calculator and it includes information about all the fields and buttons for entering a recipe. This tutorial is a great resource for those wanting to learn more about our Lye Calculator.

Along with this tutorial we also released “How to Read the Lye Calculator Printout” and “Understanding Specific Gravity“. These were written to help all soap makers understand how the Lye Calculator works and use this tool to their greater advantage.

Have fun making soap!
Andee

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Rebatching

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009

Rebatching.  This is sometimes a dirty word.  What is it and why do people do it?

Rebatching is sometimes confused with milling, or French milling. Rebatching is when a batch of soap is melted and additional items are added or a failed batch is reworked. Rebatching is done to make small, custom batches of soap from a large initial batch. The resulting bar of soap has a shorter shelf life than a properly prepared, handmade batch of soap. Rebatching is also a soap that is more likely to be cosmetically challenged (ugly).

Milling is when excess lye, fat and glycerin are removed from the soap and the resulting soap is shredded into flakes, pressed through a series of rollers and then molded. Milling makes a hard bar of soap that can last a long time. It is also not as skin friendly as a properly prepared, handmade batch of soap. Milled soaps are generally beautifully molded bars. These soaps are also more likely to be brittle.

Rebatching, when done to save a batch, is the only time MMS recommends doing this labor intensive work. Our favorite method of rebatching is the oven method. While still time consuming, the oven method is not a constant attention process.

To rebatch, using the oven method we use, shred or grate all of the soap and put it in an oven proof, lye resistant container (glass or stainless steel please!). Set the oven to 200 degrees F. Pour a bit of boiling water over the soap gratings and mash with a potato masher. I allow 1/2 hour for each pound of fat in the original batch. I mash and stir each 1/2 hour until the mixture appears fully melted and smooth in consistency. The mixture will probably be thick but it shouldn’t have major chunks. Small bits are OK to leave, but do expect color differences in the final bar of soap if you leave any small bits unmelted.

Add boiling water anytime you get a mixture that is too thick or dry. Do not add a lot of boiling water, just a little. If too much boiling water is added, then the soap will expand and probably float. Very wet soap is a problem because as it dries the sides will become concave.

To avoid the work of rebatching, try making each batch correctly the first time. The idea of making a very large batch of soap, then intentionally rebatching 1 lb at a time, seems to be wasteful of life’s precious minutes. No bar of soap that has been rebatched is an improvement over a properly made batch of handmade soap. Rebatching is for prevention of ingredient loss. It is a “waste not, want not” activity.

Tina

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Finished Bacon Soap from Julie Marcil

Monday, July 13th, 2009
Julie Marcil sent me pictures of her bacon soap and she was kind enough to send pictures and directions of the whole process. I hope you will enjoy it as much as I have.

Andee

Bacon Style Soap for Father’s Day

Here my trial at the bacon soap contest for Father’s Day. It doesn’t look as similar to bacon as the one you showed on your blog, but I hope my dad will enjoy using it.

Ingredients:

- 100 g of Coconut Oil (20%)
- 75 g of Vegetable Shortening (15%)
- 250 g of Olive Oil (50%)
- 50 g of Safflower Oil (10%)
- 25 g of Beeswax (5%)
- 170 mL of Water
- 66 g Lye (about 5.5% excess fat)

At trace:

- 1.5 tsp of Blueberry Flavor Oil
- 3 tbsp of reduced red wine for the red color of the soap

Equipment:

- Safety equipment (goggles, rubber glove, long sleeve shirt, long pants and covered shoes);
- Molds (I use little plastic containers) and mineral oil for coating;
- Stainless steel cooking pot;
- 2 spatulas;
- 2 thermometers;
- Scale;
- Graduated measuring cup for measuring water;
- Heatproof glass container for mixing lye solution;
- Whisk;
- Old blanket
- Sponges

Directions:

1- Prepare the workspace. Make sure there are plenty of clean working space and good airflow.

2- Gather all safety equipments. I use a long sleeve lab coat, pants and covered shoes that I won’t mind get ruin if a spill happens. A pair of rubber glove and safety goggles. I also make sure that I am close to a source of water and have some vinegar and sponges in case of a spill.

3- Gather all your ingredients. Measure each ingredient. I make sure I am wearing all the safety equipments from the moment I start working with the lye. Prepare the molds. I use mineral oil to coat my plastic molds.

4- Mix the water and lye in the heatproof container until total dissolution of the lye crystals. Make sure you don’t breath the fumes coming out of the solution. They are temporary. Set aside.

5- Slowly heat the oils in the stainless steel pot until everything is melted. Take the pot off the heat source.

6- Once the oils and the lye solution are about 110 F, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils stirring constantly with the whisk. Keep stirring at a good pace until a light trace occurs. With a whisk it takes me about 10 to 15 minutes.

7- At light trace, add the flavor oil and mix well.

8- Take about half the soap solution into another container. Set aside. Add the reduced red wine to the other half of the soap solution and mix well.

9- Pour the soap with red wine to fill half of the plastic molds. Then slowly pour the other half of the soap solution to fill out the rest of the molds.

10- Cover the soap molds with the old blanket and let sit for at least 24 hr or until firm.

11- Take the soap out of the molds, cut in desired size and let cure in a cool dry place for four weeks.

Personal notes on the recipe:

The ingredients in my vegetable shortening included canola, soybean and palm oil. I use soybean to calculate the amount of lye needed since it is the oil that takes the less lye among the three.

I use red wine that I simmer until all the alcohol was evaporated and the liquid reduced by half. I was hoping the red wine would give a light red color to the soap. However, the slight yellow color of the olive oil and the blueberry flavor oil gave the soap more of a brownish color than red when mixed with the wine.

Melting the oils.

Melting the oils.

Red wine, flavor oil and lye solution.

Red wine, flavor oil and lye solution.

Fresh soap in mold.

Fresh soap in mold.

Cut soap.

Cut soap.

Bacon soap with fake egg.

Bacon soap with fake egg.

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