Making a Facial Cream from Jerilyn’s Cupboard 2


Today, we will start with Jerilyn’s cupboard. She asked me for a two specific types of lotion recipes that would use her stash of ingredients in her cupboard. Here are the ingredients in her cupboard.

To begin, I decided that I would tackle the first request for a facial lotion.

I would love to have a facial lotion that would not make mascara smear under and above the eyes. However, it needs to be smooth enough not to have to tug at the skin. No, its not me with the fantastic lashes…its my sister, great looks and beautiful eyes too!

Since Jerilyn has quite the collection of ingredients, I took some time to read the ingredient descriptions from the catalog. Reading these descriptions made it easier for me to compile a list of ingredients that would be make a superb facial cream. Let’s head off to the blog kitchen and have fun!

Collect needed items:

Ingredients
Water
Hydrovance
Colorless Jojoba Oil
Emulsifying Wax
Squalane
Argan Oil
Cycomethicone
Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Germaben II Preservative
Liquid Silk
Vitamin E Acetate
Cucumber Fragrance Oil
Equipment
Scale
Mixing Container (Microwave Safe)
Spoons
Transfer Pipettes
Containers for finished product (I used the 1 oz Jar Set.)

Recipe:

Recipe in ounces:
10.64 ounces Water
0.8 ounces Hydrovance
1.6 ounces Colorless Jojoba Oil
0.8 ounces Emulsifying Wax
0.32 ounces Squalane
0.32 ounces Argan Oil
0.32 ounces Cycomethicone
0.32 ounces Dimethicone
0.32 ounces Stearic Acid
0.16 ounces Germaben II Preservative
0.16 ounces Liquid Silk
0.16 ounces Vitamin E Acetate
0.08 ounces Cucumber Fragrance Oil
Recipe in grams:
301.6 grams Water
22.7 grams Hydrovance
45.4 grams Colorless Jojoba Oil
22.7 grams Emulsifying Wax
9.1 grams Squalane
9.1 grams Argan Oil
9.1 grams Cycomethicone
9.1 grams Dimethicone
9.1 grams Stearic Acid
4.5 grams Germaben II Preservative
4.5 grams Liquid Silk
4.5 grams Vitamin E Acetate
2.3 grams Cucumber Fragrance Oil
Recipe in Percentages:
66.50% Water
5% Hydrovance
10% Colorless Jojoba Oil
5% Emulsifying Wax
2% Squalane
2% Argan Oil
2% Cycomethicone
2% Dimethicone
2% Stearic Acid
1% Germaben II Preservative
1% Liquid Silk
1% Vitamin E Acetate
0.5% Cucumber Fragrance Oil

Weigh all ingredients except the additives (Germaben II Preservative, Liquid Silk, Vitamin E Acetate, and Cucumber Fragrance Oil) into the microwave safe container. Heat in the microwave using short time bursts until everything is melted. Blend the ingredients to a smooth, creamy consistency using the immersion blender. Add additives once the temperature drops enough that you don’t feel like you are burning your hands when moving the mixing bucket. Blend until completely mixed. Pour into jars and allow to cool completely. Cap the jars.

Yield: This recipe will make 16 fl ounces.

Notes: This is a thick facial cream and it feels pleasant but not heavy when applied to the skin. Perfect for any skin types! Like most facial creams, this will not prevent mascara smears on the eyelids. I asked our Technical Team about how one would prevent mascara from smearing and I was told the following.

Mascara can easily smear when introduced to an oily environment. The best way to prevent such smearing is to apply your facial cream and massage it into the skin completely. Using your facial powder and a powder brush, gently dust the upper and lower eyelids. This powder will “absorb” the extra oil and prevent the mascara from smudging during a day of regular wear. Unfortunately crying isn’t on the list of approved regular day activities. 😀

I hope you enjoy this facial cream as much as I do. Enjoy!

Completely cooled cream on my finger.

A glass beaker filled with ingredients ready to be melted.

After microwaving the ingredients.

Beginning to mix with an immersion blender.

Continuing to blend the ingredients together.

Finished facial cream in jars.

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About Andee

I’m a twenty something soap snob. I’ve grown up with hand made soaps and I love them! I really like making lotions, soaps and perfumes. I adore mixing scents to come up with something new. My favorite scent is either Wicked or Cotton Candy. I tend to hoard fragrances, I even have an Earl Grey Tea from the MMS catalog. I won’t tell you how old it is, but it sure is good!


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2 thoughts on “Making a Facial Cream from Jerilyn’s Cupboard

  • ruby

    Hi Andee!

    I love your blog and thesage!

    I hope you can help me with a problem I consistently have with my green tea lotion. I use your percentages in this recipe and then different oils and extracts. My cream has a huge emulsion problem with my recipe perhaps because of the tea and PH maybe? Some days it works, some days I have to re-add massive amounts of ewax and stearic ( and reheat everything).

    Recently I made this cream and before adding the preservatives, it was just perfect–thick, rich, creamy! Then I added my optiphen, green tea extract, vit E, and sodium lactate (which I have just started adding to help the PH because it helped this cream last time) and BLAM–massive separation issues and total watery mess! So had to reheat and add more ewax and stearic and even a bit of baking soda water to make it more alkaline.

    Here is the recipe for 36 OZ:

    water (green tea water)–66% (673 gr)
    coconut oil–3% (30 gr)
    olive 3% (30 gr)
    rice bran–2% (20 gr)
    avocado–2% (20 gr)
    apricot–2% (20 gr)
    shea butter–3% (30 gr)

    total oils 15%

    ewax (had to increase this and this is before the re-heat)–76 grams (% is now higher than the recommended in your recipe)
    stearic (this one is higher too) 37 grams

    hydrovance–5% (51 gr)
    cyclomethicone 2% (20 gr)
    dimethicone –2% (20 gr)

    vitamin E–1% (10 gr)
    green tea extract–1% (10 gr)

    optiphen– 2.5% (i sell this so I preserve at max) (25 gr)
    k sorbate (also add to be sure)–2 teaspoons
    matcha green tea poder (about 2 teaspoons)

    Thanks so much!

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    • Andee Post author

      Ruby,
      This is what I would recommend.
      1. Change to Liquid Germall Plus.
      2. Follow original recipe to a T with your oil and extract changes. No additions of powders, baking soda, etc, allowed.
      3. Then report back about how things are working.

      I have a feeling the additions might be what would be causing the emulsion problem, but let’s start with the basics to check. 😉
      Andee

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