Comments on: Rebatching http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/ Thoughts and ideas from the world of Majestic Mountain Sage. Mon, 15 Mar 2010 23:50:13 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=abc hourly 1 By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-653 Andee Wed, 29 Jul 2009 00:20:07 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-653 This is a Cold Process Soap using the Ruby Lip Balm Color. The details regarding the soap are on the July 14th post. The title of the post is the bottom line. This is a Cold Process Soap using the Ruby Lip Balm Color. The details regarding the soap are on the July 14th post. The title of the post is the bottom line.

]]> By: yahabah http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-652 yahabah Tue, 28 Jul 2009 22:37:49 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-652 The label states: "This FREE sample is from our blog project on July 14th, 2009. Check it out! Searching for a Red Color". The soap is orange and has ridges on two sides. The label states: “This FREE sample is from our blog project on July 14th, 2009. Check it out! Searching for a Red Color”.
The soap is orange and has ridges on two sides.

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-650 Andee Tue, 28 Jul 2009 22:12:32 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-650 yahabah, What color is the soap? Was there a label on the bag the sample came in? yahabah,
What color is the soap? Was there a label on the bag the sample came in?

]]> By: yahabah http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-649 yahabah Tue, 28 Jul 2009 21:26:03 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-649 I just got my first order and I'm going to do Mango Lip Solution lip balms. A free sample came in the mail with it and it looks like the cold process soap. Is it a soap? ready to use? Reason why I'm asking is that when I ordered the lip solution jar, I didn't think to order a color to add to it and for a moment, I thought this free sample could be melted and added to the lip balm solution. No? The free sample does not smell like "soap", it feels waxy like crayons so I just thought .... Anyway, help. I just got my first order and I’m going to do Mango Lip Solution lip balms. A free sample came in the mail with it and it looks like the cold process soap. Is it a soap? ready to use? Reason why I’m asking is that when I ordered the lip solution jar, I didn’t think to order a color to add to it and for a moment, I thought this free sample could be melted and added to the lip balm solution. No? The free sample does not smell like “soap”, it feels waxy like crayons so I just thought …. Anyway, help.

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-629 Andee Tue, 21 Jul 2009 15:58:45 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-629 Rebatching, whether water is added or not, will cause the soap to oxidize sooner. Certainly some people prefer this method.  This is much a preference thing with cars, meals and books.  If your goal is to make a soap and use less essential oil, then rebatching may help.  If your goal is to make a large batch then remake only what you want at a time, then rebatching is certainly for you.  If you want a soap that will last on the shelf for 2 plus years, then rebatching is not for you.  Consider the overall objective as being the critical point of decision. As far as citrus oils and staying power, you will need to use more and you can add an oil like castor, almond or other to salts.  In soap you will just need to increase the amount you use.  Try blending with citrusy smelling herbs like lemongrass and citronella. This will help anchor the scent for a longer lasting odor. Rebatching, whether water is added or not, will cause the soap to oxidize sooner. Certainly some people prefer this method.  This is much a preference thing with cars, meals and books.  If your goal is to make a soap and use less essential oil, then rebatching may help.  If your goal is to make a large batch then remake only what you want at a time, then rebatching is certainly for you.  If you want a soap that will last on the shelf for 2 plus years, then rebatching is not for you.  Consider the overall objective as being the critical point of decision.

As far as citrus oils and staying power, you will need to use more and you can add an oil like castor, almond or other to salts.  In soap you will just need to increase the amount you use.  Try blending with citrusy smelling herbs like lemongrass and citronella. This will help anchor the scent for a longer lasting odor.

]]> By: dustie http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-626 dustie Tue, 21 Jul 2009 06:28:58 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-626 thaks Zany, i will try a base batch tomorrow and add my super fatting mix at trace, then i will shred the next day and leave out the liquid i will add my EO's and herbs the second day so the lye dose not eat up the majority of my goodies :) sounds like a good way to avoid the problems of them going bad. Andee what is your opinon on thi process?? like i said before we are trying to keep high quality soaps but stay in our tight budget. our small business we have started we are funding all o our own. This can be tricky at times :) Andee, I have one more question please i hope you have the answer. I love lemon EO as well as Tangerien EO but it never sticks in my soaps or my salts.... ???? why and how can i make it last??? i have tryed powdered benzoein as well as tryed orris root powder no luck with either..... do i need to increase the amount of these ingrdeients or is there another natural fixitive that will work better??? our business is built on being very green and earth body friendly so the only snythetics we use are fragrence oils. even our colors are done by herbs and spices. it can be very chalenging but worth it to us. Can you help PLEASE.... Thank you so much!!! Dustie thaks Zany, i will try a base batch tomorrow and add my super fatting mix at trace, then i will shred the next day and leave out the liquid i will add my EO’s and herbs the second day so the lye dose not eat up the majority of my goodies :) sounds like a good way to avoid the problems of them going bad. Andee what is your opinon on thi process?? like i said before we are trying to keep high quality soaps but stay in our tight budget. our small business we have started we are funding all o our own. This can be tricky at times :)

Andee, I have one more question please i hope you have the answer. I love lemon EO as well as Tangerien EO but it never sticks in my soaps or my salts…. ???? why and how can i make it last??? i have tryed powdered benzoein as well as tryed orris root powder no luck with either….. do i need to increase the amount of these ingrdeients or is there another natural fixitive that will work better??? our business is built on being very green and earth body friendly so the only snythetics we use are fragrence oils. even our colors are done by herbs and spices. it can be very chalenging but worth it to us. Can you help PLEASE…. Thank you so much!!!
Dustie

]]> By: Zany http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-616 Zany Fri, 17 Jul 2009 02:57:25 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-616 Just wanted to mention -- some soapers actually prefer to add their "goodies" at rebatch. Here's what I do. 1) Make soap using full water amount. 2) Grate up or chunk the next day. Put in large stainless steel pot. Cover. 3) Put in 250° oven for 1 hour. NO LIQUID added. No "mashing" necessary. No guessing on how long to cook. 4) Soap should be molten after an hour. If not, repeat for 20 minute increments. Stir. Add goodies. Stir again. 5) Mold up; unmold and cut when fairly firm; set out to cure. I've done this once, then again the next day -- 2 days in a row, adding my goodies after the second melt. Not only works well, but cures more quickly too because some of the excess water evaporates during the process. Rule of thumb: No liquid necessary for fresh soap; for fairly young soap, add just enough liquid to wet all the gratings; for old soap, you can add up to 1/3 the weight of soap. NOTE: You can also add enough liquid to cover the gratings. This results in a wetter soap, takes longer to cure, but you get a smoother finish -- unlike the marbled effect one normally gets from rebatching. Use water for lard & tallow soaps; milk (any kind will do, but coconut is nice!) for all vegie soaps. Just wanted to mention — some soapers actually prefer to add their “goodies” at rebatch. Here’s what I do.

1) Make soap using full water amount.
2) Grate up or chunk the next day. Put in large stainless steel pot. Cover.
3) Put in 250° oven for 1 hour. NO LIQUID added. No “mashing” necessary. No guessing on how long to cook.
4) Soap should be molten after an hour. If not, repeat for 20 minute increments. Stir. Add goodies. Stir again.
5) Mold up; unmold and cut when fairly firm; set out to cure.

I’ve done this once, then again the next day — 2 days in a row, adding my goodies after the second melt. Not only works well, but cures more quickly too because some of the excess water evaporates during the process.

Rule of thumb: No liquid necessary for fresh soap; for fairly young soap, add just enough liquid to wet all the gratings; for old soap, you can add up to 1/3 the weight of soap.

NOTE: You can also add enough liquid to cover the gratings. This results in a wetter soap, takes longer to cure, but you get a smoother finish — unlike the marbled effect one normally gets from rebatching.

Use water for lard & tallow soaps; milk (any kind will do, but coconut is nice!) for all vegie soaps.

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-613 Andee Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:34:29 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-613 dustie & sincerlyemily, The extra oil will oxidize sooner.  The additional heat, the extra water introduced and the extra oil all combine to have a product which has been more exposed to air and detrimental conditions.  This will cause the superfatting oils to go rancid.  Plain cold process soap, when kept cool and dry, can last 2 plus years without a problem.  Soap with extra fats added, rebatched, or extra water which was added during a remake processing, all cause the bar to be more prone to rancidity. dustie & sincerlyemily,
The extra oil will oxidize sooner.  The additional heat, the extra water introduced and the extra oil all combine to have a product which has been more exposed to air and detrimental conditions.  This will cause the superfatting oils to go rancid.  Plain cold process soap, when kept cool and dry, can last 2 plus years without a problem.  Soap with extra fats added, rebatched, or extra water which was added during a remake processing, all cause the bar to be more prone to rancidity.

]]> By: sincerelyemily http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-612 sincerelyemily Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:56:05 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-612 My question is the same as Dustie's. How is the shelf life shortened and what shortens it? Thanks, Emily My question is the same as Dustie’s. How is the shelf life shortened and what shortens it? Thanks, Emily

]]> By: dustie http://blog.thesage.com/2009/07/15/rebatching/comment-page-1/#comment-607 dustie Thu, 16 Jul 2009 05:57:57 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=3242#comment-607 how dose rebatching shorten the shelve life? very curious here as i have done both cp soap and cp base batches and tend to stick with rebatching for the simple fact that it dose not take as much EO's to scent as the first go round dose. Times like these i try to find find ways to strech what we have in our budget for scenting our soaps and still mantain our high quality of herbal and EO packed soaps. We like to add a super fatting punch at our rebatching phase as well with added shea and cocoa butters to double the moisturizing quality of our products as well. Any ideas out there ???? Or any known problems with this process???? Thanks Dustie how dose rebatching shorten the shelve life? very curious here as i have done both cp soap and cp base batches and tend to stick with rebatching for the simple fact that it dose not take as much EO’s to scent as the first go round dose. Times like these i try to find find ways to strech what we have in our budget for scenting our soaps and still mantain our high quality of herbal and EO packed soaps. We like to add a super fatting punch at our rebatching phase as well with added shea and cocoa butters to double the moisturizing quality of our products as well. Any ideas out there ???? Or any known problems with this process????
Thanks
Dustie

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