Comments on: Curing Soap http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/ Thoughts and ideas from the world of Majestic Mountain Sage. Thu, 18 Mar 2010 19:20:02 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=abc hourly 1 By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-764 Andee Tue, 08 Sep 2009 19:41:44 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-764 If you live in an area that is very dry the soap will be concave. This extra water will cause some problems because the soap now looks cosmetically challenged. If you live in a humid area then this may be the trick you need for getting soap out easily. If you live in an area that is very dry the soap will be concave. This extra water will cause some problems because the soap now looks cosmetically challenged. If you live in a humid area then this may be the trick you need for getting soap out easily.

]]> By: ChrisWhewell http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-747 ChrisWhewell Sun, 06 Sep 2009 22:44:56 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-747 I do well on some recipes to blend in 1-2 % extra water at trace. After moulding and setting 36 hours, some of the water leaves causing the mass to shrink, facilitating removal. I do well on some recipes to blend in 1-2 % extra water at trace. After moulding and setting 36 hours, some of the water leaves causing the mass to shrink, facilitating removal.

]]> By: tamithornton http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-141 tamithornton Fri, 13 Mar 2009 15:39:35 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-141 I found some coolings racks (stainless steel) at the dollar store -- and cure my soaps on these for about four weeks -- works great (no turning) I found some coolings racks (stainless steel) at the dollar store — and cure my soaps on these for about four weeks — works great (no turning)

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-139 Andee Fri, 13 Mar 2009 14:13:50 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-139 jaspersgarden- I finally fixed all the images, so you can now click on the smaller images and see the full sized image. Sorry about that! I think something in my code work broke. jaspersgarden-
I finally fixed all the images, so you can now click on the smaller images and see the full sized image. Sorry about that! I think something in my code work broke.

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-138 Andee Fri, 13 Mar 2009 14:11:17 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-138 sincerelyemily- Congratulations! It sounds like you are well on your way to having lots of fun making soap. I'm glad you feel more comfortable making the soap. After all, if soap-making is your hobby, then you should have fun doing it, or it isn't a fun hobby! Have fun choosing your scents! Andee sincerelyemily-
Congratulations! It sounds like you are well on your way to having lots of fun making soap. I’m glad you feel more comfortable making the soap. After all, if soap-making is your hobby, then you should have fun doing it, or it isn’t a fun hobby! Have fun choosing your scents!
Andee

]]> By: sincerelyemily http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-137 sincerelyemily Fri, 13 Mar 2009 14:07:13 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-137 Well, I tried my second batch after reading and re-reading everything. I felt more comfortable and the process went so much faster and smoother than the first batch of soap I did before finding you....thanks!The first batch is fine and the second batch is fine too. however, EVEN though you told me in one of the other posts in the process to use mineral oil, Vaseline, or silicone spray to grease my molds, somehow I converted that to Pam and could not get my soap out of the mold at all (just like jrdgarrett). I ended up having to break the mold bit by bit to get it out (luckily it was just a cheap rubber made one like you have been showing us in) but I learned a lot from that! I wasn't set in my ways on the temperature reading part, so that is easy to get over and move on to making more soap. It was SO much fun to make the second batch of soap and I am looking forward to another batch in the next week - now the hard part of deciding what to add (scent wise). thank you so much for all you answers to my questions and sharing this process with all of us. Emily!!! Well, I tried my second batch after reading and re-reading everything. I felt more comfortable and the process went so much faster and smoother than the first batch of soap I did before finding you….thanks!The first batch is fine and the second batch is fine too. however, EVEN though you told me in one of the other posts in the process to use mineral oil, Vaseline, or silicone spray to grease my molds, somehow I converted that to Pam and could not get my soap out of the mold at all (just like jrdgarrett). I ended up having to break the mold bit by bit to get it out (luckily it was just a cheap rubber made one like you have been showing us in) but I learned a lot from that! I wasn’t set in my ways on the temperature reading part, so that is easy to get over and move on to making more soap. It was SO much fun to make the second batch of soap and I am looking forward to another batch in the next week – now the hard part of deciding what to add (scent wise). thank you so much for all you answers to my questions and sharing this process with all of us. Emily!!!

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-136 Andee Fri, 13 Mar 2009 04:19:43 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-136 jrdgarrett- Ack! I see your problem right here. The Pam is simply a saponifiable oil, and that oil can be converted to soap. This conversion makes the Pam act more like soap Super Glue rather than the releasing agent you wanted it to be. For greasing a mold we recommend a thin coating of mineral oil, Vaseline, or a silicone spray that meat grinders use. These are not saponifiable materials. jrdgarrett-
Ack! I see your problem right here. The Pam is simply a saponifiable oil, and that oil can be converted to soap. This conversion makes the Pam act more like soap Super Glue rather than the releasing agent you wanted it to be. For greasing a mold we recommend a thin coating of mineral oil, Vaseline, or a silicone spray that meat grinders use. These are not saponifiable materials.

]]> By: jrdgarrett http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-134 jrdgarrett Fri, 13 Mar 2009 01:48:13 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-134 I have trouble getting my soaps out of the molds. I use the rubbermaid container you suggested and a plastic soap mold I ordered from you. The last 4 batches have stuck terribly. I spray each mold with a good amount of Pam which was not successful and I've tried putting it in the freezer which didn't help much. I don't want to use plastic wrap inside the mold because the details of the mold gets lost and you can't tell what it is. What could I use that will let me keep the mold details and still get the soap out of the mold without ruining the look of the soap? Thank you for all of the great information! You've given me the courage to try making these items, something I wouldn't have done before finding your site! I'm having a great time learning this skill. Thank you so much! I have trouble getting my soaps out of the molds. I use the rubbermaid container you suggested and a plastic soap mold I ordered from you. The last 4 batches have stuck terribly. I spray each mold with a good amount of Pam which was not successful and I’ve tried putting it in the freezer which didn’t help much. I don’t want to use plastic wrap inside the mold because the details of the mold gets lost and you can’t tell what it is. What could I use that will let me keep the mold details and still get the soap out of the mold without ruining the look of the soap? Thank you for all of the great information! You’ve given me the courage to try making these items, something I wouldn’t have done before finding your site! I’m having a great time learning this skill. Thank you so much!

]]> By: jaspersgarden http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-133 jaspersgarden Thu, 12 Mar 2009 21:28:35 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-133 Instead of using a cookie drying rack, I use the cardboard flats that canned cat food come in. Each cardboard flat holds approx 4 #'s of cut up soap. I also line the bottom of the cardboard flat with the freezer paper I used to cover my log or slab of soap while it was saponifying - prior to unmolding. Hope that makes sense! Anyway, this way, I don't really have to "turn" my soaps every day - I'll forget for sure! Thank you for starting your Blog ~ I have learned sooo much from you! There is one thing I'd like to see you get back to - showing larger images by clicking on the smaller images - those were so nice! Kathy Instead of using a cookie drying rack, I use the cardboard flats that canned cat food come in. Each cardboard flat holds approx 4 #’s of cut up soap. I also line the bottom of the cardboard flat with the freezer paper I used to cover my log or slab of soap while it was saponifying – prior to unmolding. Hope that makes sense! Anyway, this way, I don’t really have to “turn” my soaps every day – I’ll forget for sure! Thank you for starting your Blog ~ I have learned sooo much from you! There is one thing I’d like to see you get back to – showing larger images by clicking on the smaller images – those were so nice! Kathy

]]> By: Andee http://blog.thesage.com/2009/03/10/curing-soap/comment-page-1/#comment-131 Andee Wed, 11 Mar 2009 17:49:15 +0000 http://blog.thesage.com/?p=1431#comment-131 kathyjane- We use crinkle cutters or benchers. Benchers are sometimes called dough cutters, dough scrapers, or bench knives. A crinkle cutter looks similar but has wavy blade instead of a straight one. Stacking cold process soaps like Stonehenge allows for lots of air circulation in a small space. The soaps can easily be rotated a quarter turn and then change positions in the stack (what was horizontal is now vertical), this way all surfaces get exposure and the process of drying is shorter in time. kathyjane-
We use crinkle cutters or benchers. Benchers are sometimes called dough cutters, dough scrapers, or bench knives. A crinkle cutter looks similar but has wavy blade instead of a straight one.

Stacking cold process soaps like Stonehenge allows for lots of air circulation in a small space. The soaps can easily be rotated a quarter turn and then change positions in the stack (what was horizontal is now vertical), this way all surfaces get exposure and the process of drying is shorter in time.

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